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Thread: Rear Main Seal

  1. #1
    Junior Member xsenerg's Avatar
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    Rear Main Seal

    Hey Everyone,

    I was wondering if any of you all knew the going rate for a shop to replace a rear amin seal. I have an 89 gt 5spd and they want to charge me $700-$800. I have used these mechanics for a while and they know what they are doing, I just do not know the going rates for this job and it sounds a little high. Anyone know a reputable shop that would cost less in the east valley? I do not have the tools or the time to do it myself. Thanks.
    XSENERG
    1989 Ford Mustang GT
    331 Stroker
    AFR-185 Heads
    1.7 Roller Rockers
    Custom Comp Cam
    Edlebrock Upper and Lower Intakes
    Cold Air Induction
    Spec Stage 1 Clutch
    4.10 Gears
    Short Throw Shifter
    150 Shot NOS

  2. #2
    Administrator BurnTire's Avatar
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    I would say a well equipped shop could do it in 4 hours. Tranny has to come out. Replacing the seal is easy when you finally get to it.
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  3. #3
    Junior Member xsenerg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BurnTire View Post
    I would say a well equipped shop could do it in 4 hours. Tranny has to come out. Replacing the seal is easy when you finally get to it.
    Thanks burntire, I do not know the average labor rate. Would you please tell me the dollar figure 4 hours equates to. PSR said $522 out the door. Are they reputable? I really trust my mechs, just do not want to pay more than necessary for quality work!
    XSENERG
    1989 Ford Mustang GT
    331 Stroker
    AFR-185 Heads
    1.7 Roller Rockers
    Custom Comp Cam
    Edlebrock Upper and Lower Intakes
    Cold Air Induction
    Spec Stage 1 Clutch
    4.10 Gears
    Short Throw Shifter
    150 Shot NOS

  4. #4
    Administrator BurnTire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xsenerg View Post
    Thanks burntire, I do not know the average labor rate. Would you please tell me the dollar figure 4 hours equates to. PSR said $522 out the door. Are they reputable? I really trust my mechs, just do not want to pay more than necessary for quality work!
    That sounds reasonable and yes they can get the job done to your standards.
    Sold
    2004 Cobra, Whipple ,TH-400
    Burning Corn
    9.97 - 135.5

  5. #5
    Senior Member AZSaleen04's Avatar
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    sent you a message.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member AZSonicSnake's Avatar
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    PSR does good work. i would trust them. and that sounds like a good price honestly....

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  7. #7
    Senior Member TorchedMach1's Avatar
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    You can definitely trust PSR to do a good job for ya!
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  8. #8
    Senior Member WildBill's Avatar
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    Bring it on in. that's an easy fix.
    If it's really bad, I can come and get you for a very reasonable fee.
    You don't need to let it go though. It can kill your clutch.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member IMSHAKN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WildBill@PSR View Post
    Bring it on in. that's an easy fix.
    If it's really bad, I can come and get you for a very reasonable fee.
    You don't need to let it go though. It can kill your clutch.
    Yeah, that's not fun when that happens... I've been there. Was shocked to see that was one of the main culprits for death of my last clutch. Any job that I don't feel like doing myself I would trust to PSR. And that is a good price FYI with materials and labor.
    ~Andrew

  10. #10
    Junior Member xsenerg's Avatar
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    Good news

    It was not a bad seal but a pcv valve. Issue corrected. I almost passed emissions today. Passed everything except fuel system pressure test? Any ideas? I am still overheating too. It stays in the middle of the gage on the highway at 2200 rpms no problem but in the stop and go city driving it gets hot quick. Also gets hot if a/c is on. There is a 160 stat, fan works great, good flow in radiator, 30 degree drop across radiator. The water pump seems good but pushes 24gpm at 2200+rpm yet only puts out 8gpm at idle to 1000rpm. The lower radiator hose does not have the internal anti collapse spring but it is not getting hot on the highway.One thing I did notice was that after I fill the radiator up (running) to about 2 inches below the mouth of the radiator, and then turn it off, the coolant rises up and overflows the radiator. Is this normal? Can air in the system cause serious overheating? How do you purge? I know I am asking a lot of questions, but I am anxious to get this thing in shape! Please let me know what you all think. Thanks.
    XSENERG
    1989 Ford Mustang GT
    331 Stroker
    AFR-185 Heads
    1.7 Roller Rockers
    Custom Comp Cam
    Edlebrock Upper and Lower Intakes
    Cold Air Induction
    Spec Stage 1 Clutch
    4.10 Gears
    Short Throw Shifter
    150 Shot NOS

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