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Thread: MSD 2-Step Launch Control Installation

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  1. #1
    Administrator BurnTire's Avatar
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    Thumbs up MSD 2-Step Launch Control Installation

    MSD 2-Step Launch Control
    Ford Modular Motors 1999 and On
    Part Number 8734


    The MSD unit pulls spark. The stock limiter pulls fuel.


    This is plug and play so you just plug stock coil pack wiring into the MSD connector then the MSD connector into the coil pack.

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    It takes a little creative wiring, but you can get everything under the coil pack covers.
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    The stock wiring has a rubber grommet where the wiring comes out of the rear of the covers. You will need to remove the grommet form both sides to accommodate the MSD wiring.
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    Wiring out of the cover.
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    Covers On
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    The stock loom had a rubber connection where the wires split from a single loom to a double loom.
    I removed the rubber because I needed a little more length on the passenger side. The wiring is run along the firewall.
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    I mounted the Box on the passenger side with velcro. I added a little super glue to the velcro for a more permanent attachment. I grounded the unit using the bolt that connects to the strap from the hood blanket.
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    Manual Tranmission

    I used the 12V source option to control the unit. I tied it into the clutch switch (switch that kills the cruise control when the clutch is pedal is pushed in.

    There is some wire loom on the black factory wires that I removed then reinstalled.

    Tap the (blue and white) MSD wire into the (black) clutch switch wire that is closest to the firewall.

    You do not use the solid blue wire on the MSD unit. I just tucked in under the dash after taping off the top. The blue wire is to activate the system via a ground so be sure to tape off the top so it doesn't ground itself on something.
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    Automatic Tranmissions
    If you want to use this in conjunction with a trans brake you connect the (blue and white wire) to the same 12V wire the transbrake is operated from so they work together as a single circuit.

    Video of a 3500 RPM test. It holds the RPM's nice and steady, unlike the stock limiter which bounces all over the place.
    YouTube- MSD 2-Step Launch Control

  2. #2
    Senior Member u1arunit's Avatar
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    Nice write up Jeff! I like the plug and play part. lol It sure does hold 'er steady. I need one of those! The vid works great for me.
    Mark
    Steel City Terminators
    '04 Black Cobra
    663RWHP / 665RWTQ

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    Administrator BurnTire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by u1arunit View Post
    Nice write up Jeff! I like the plug and play part. lol It sure does hold 'er steady. I need one of those! The vid works great for me.
    I got some conflicting info on the activation hookup. I will update that soon. There are two clutch switches. One kills the Cruise control and the other is the Neutral switch. I have to figure out which way is best.
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    Senior Member IMSHAKN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BurnTire View Post
    I got some conflicting info on the activation hookup. I will update that soon. There are two clutch switches. One kills the Cruise control and the other is the Neutral switch. I have to figure out which way is best.
    Better change that before you become known as burnt wire. Kidding. I'd think it would work fine either way with no issues looking at my wiring diagram book.
    ~Andrew

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    Administrator BurnTire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMSHAKN View Post
    Better change that before you become known as burnt wire. Kidding. I'd think it would work fine either way with no issues looking at my wiring diagram book.
    LOL

    I am hooked to the cruise control kill switch on the clutch I believe.

    I want some info on neutral safety switch.

    What does you diagram show on the neutral safety switch?
    Which wire is hot prior to activating the switch?
    Or are they both hot and the circuit is broken when activated?

    Or I can get my lazy butt under the dash with the volt meter.
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    Senior Member IMSHAKN's Avatar
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    Let me look. I guess having the factory wiring schematics comes in handy. lol.
    ~Andrew

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    Administrator BurnTire's Avatar
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    I found it. It is called the CPP clutch pedal position switch and it is not a 12 volt source.

    There is a way to use it via a ground.
    http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co.../photo_13.html

    This is the connector I would need to do it thru the CPP.
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    Administrator BurnTire's Avatar
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    You can't tap the CPP switch as it is only a 5 volt source. That is why MM&FF used the additional connector in the CPP to complete the ground.

    Clutch Pedal Position Switch
    The clutch pedal position (CPP) switch (Figure 27) is an input to the PCM indicating the clutch pedal position and, in some manual transmission applications, both the clutch pedal engagement position and the gear shift position. The PCM provides a 5-volt reference (VREF) signal to the CPP switch and/or a park/neutral position (PNP) switch (on the CPP signal line). If the CPP switch (either or both CPP and PNP switches are closed) is closed, indicating the clutch pedal is engaged and the shift lever is in the NEUTRAL position, the output voltage (5 volts) from the PCM is grounded through the signal return line to the PCM, and there is 1 volt or less. One volt or less indicates there is a reduced load on the engine. If the CPP switch (or PNP switch on vehicle or both CPP and PNP switches open on the vehicle) is open, meaning the clutch pedal is disengaged (all systems) and the shift lever is not in NEUTRAL position (PNP switch systems), the input on the CPP signal to the PCM will be approximately 5 volts. Then, the 5-volt signal input at the PCM will indicate a load on the engine. The PCM uses the load information in mass air flow and fuel calculations.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member IMSHAKN's Avatar
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    Correct on the wire. Personally I would think it would be better to have it hooked up as you do unless you only want it activated at the floor, in which case you'd want it on the red/blue wire as shown on the link you found from that website as that will be a complete circuit at full disengagement of the clutch. I don't know about you, but I don't launch with the pedal to the floor...maybe I'm interpreting it wrong but I think you've got it hooked up the better way.
    ~Andrew

  10. #10
    Senior Member IMSHAKN's Avatar
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    Think of it this way, it works perfectly the way you've got it now and even if it's still pulling spark for the extra split second that it takes for the pedal to travel up breaking the circuit you are not going to see much of a difference...or am I missing something about this second wire they are using to hook it up? Half the time I think those guys in the magazine articles are on crack so I wouldn't assume their way is necessarily best...your way makes more sense to me.
    ~Andrew

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