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Thread: What steering?

  1. #11
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    225's??? That will take away from the braking and the cornering performance. But I'll do the bump steer for sure.

  2. #12
    Senior Member svtrichie's Avatar
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    What I meant was that the original size was a 225/55/16, now with you 18" wheels, I don't think that going from what you have to a 245/40/18 will make a bid difference.

  3. #13
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    Funny you say that 'cause I was thinking of going down to 17's. They'll fit better and are cheaper.

  4. #14
    Super Moderator Jacostang's Avatar
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    Bump Steer Kit for any lowered Fox IMO, I went to 18's and the car was so crazy I went back to my 17's and stayed there. Also you will find if you really tighen up it will drive so much better. Don't know if you have done subs and shock tower bracing but Foxes need all the help they can get and Maximum motorsports sells the best shock tower brace!
    "The choices we make, dictates the lives we lead"


  5. #15
    Senior Member Torchmach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacostang View Post
    Bump Steer Kit for any lowered Fox IMO, Don't know if you have done subs and shock tower bracing but Foxes need all the help they can get and Maximum motorsports sells the best shock tower brace!
    Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...........
    I have the Ford Racing M-5300-B springs on my 88' GT that lower the front by 7/8" and back by 1/2" with stock rates (They get rid of the "4XFord" wheelwell look). The Car has a nasty jerk to the right, when changing lanes to the left, on road surfaces that have a lot of drainage camber.

    Sounds like I should invest in a bumpsteer kit, subframe connectors, and shocktower brace. Any potental issues with clearance if I should go to an aftermarket intake manifold (thinking about the Edelbrock Performer) in the future?

    Have to agree with you on Maximum Motorsports parts. I have installed their subframe connectors, and lower control arms on my Mach 1, and will be back for more of their parts on that Car. The Fox chassis has a lot of flex in it (particularly hatchbacks), but my doors still pass the two finger open and close test.

  6. #16
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    Damn! That's one helluva shopping list I've got. Strut tower brace, sub frame connectors, tie rods, bump steer...is that it? Oh yeah, 17's. I'm glad ya'll are putting in all this help, I appreciate it. I just wasn't ready for such a production. OH well, the price I must pay to have the baddest around.

    Which SC do ya'll recommend?

  7. #17
    Super Moderator Jacostang's Avatar
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    It's not really that much except for the wheels. Just look at Maximum Motorsports and check out Stage3 for deals..
    "The choices we make, dictates the lives we lead"


  8. #18
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    Rack & pinion and the tie rods are the culpable parties. Thanks for the advice. I will be making most of the changes that were brought up mainly because it is a good idea. I should get it back Monday. Can't wait to get it and terrorize the streets. Not really but I'll at least speed down I-10. C' ya...P

  9. #19
    Senior Member svtrichie's Avatar
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    That is great that hopefully your problems will end. I would have though that whoever aligned your car earlier with the caster/camber plates would have caught the tie rod/steering rack problem. If you can, leave the 18" wheels/tires. So lets see some pics of your ride.

  10. #20
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    So, I got it back and it drives the same. Next week, I'll be getting 17's and try to get to the bottom of this problem. What else can it be? Another thing is that the steering wheel feels lose. It's on properly, we checked. But there seems to be "play" with it. I can jiggle it left & right a few inches (1 or 2) and not make the car turn. This does not occur with my friends '87 and '93. Maybe that lil' bit will help the mechanical sleuths. Thanks...P

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