Great News!!!!!!

[Dan]

I hooked it up to the IDS which can run realtive compression tests, power balance tests, and lots of other stuff. I ran self tests on the motor with koeo and koer to pull cmdts. It only threw one which was an over boost condition. I also monitored pids to make sure everything was where it should be. Everything was normal so I decided to put an engine ear on it. The knock was the worst on the right bank. I kept listening and started canceling cylinders. I pulled #4 and the noise decreased a lot, which tell us that is the problem cylinder. Its hard to say whether it started with a rod which led to the piston slapping around creating a slight double knock or whether the wrist pin took a dump. My guess is the rod went first. We won't really know more until we pull it apart.

just make sure you bore a scope the hole first It sounds like a piston issue.
Good luck


if you need to borrow a bore a scope we have one we will lend you to verify the problem before you take it apart

[santa_rosa_lt1]

damn that blows (sorry had to say it) why not get a flp short block $3595 http://www.lightningforceperformance...ock-p-486.html
and use your stock heads and super charger if possible?then when you have the dough build from there?

[WildBill]

Just a hint
If under power, you pull a coil and the noise goes away, it's a piston, but if it just diminishes, it's bottom end.

[Graham]

Just a hint
If under power, you pull a coil and the noise goes away, it's a piston, but if it just diminishes, it's bottom end.

It's better to pull the injector instead. If you pull the cop It will keep dumping fuel...no bueno

[WildBill]

It's better to pull the injector instead. If you pull the cop It will keep dumping fuel...no bueno

How many miles ya gonna drive it? LOL! ....10 seconds ain't gonna hurt. ;)

[ASUSMC]

Im just saying the motor has to come all the way apart regardless of whether it is a piston or a rod. The truck isn't going anywhere but in the garage for a while. Will probably start tearing into it this weekend.

[jjmatheson]

That is bad, Im sorry for your experience. That is why I would not run fourteen p.s.i. on a stock Eaton, especially with 91 octane. Why did they not take timing out on the first run then add timing on the following runs. More boost is not always better, spinning the blower faster means more heat. Save your money and buy a Whipple.

[Graham]

That is bad, Im sorry for your experience. That is why I would not run fourteen p.s.i. on a stock Eaton, especially with 91 octane. Why did they not take timing out on the first run then add timing on the following runs. More boost is not always better, spinning the blower faster means more heat. Save your money and buy a Whipple.

Its not a stock eaton

[ASUSMC]

It didn't have any timing in it. The first 3 runs were made with 10 degrees total timing. That and I am pretty sure the blower is ported. Has to be a home port its just too loud to not be ported and I don't see any Steig stamps or numbers anywhere. I will find out when it comes off. Probably could use a rebuild. First things first find out how bad the motor is and decide what I am going to do about it.

For the record I am not blaming Keith or Arizona Dyno chip for any of this.

[Ethan@S3M]

It didn't have any timing in it. The first 3 runs were made with 10 degrees total timing. That and I am pretty sure the blower is ported. Has to be a home port its just too loud to not be ported and I don't see any Steig stamps or numbers anywhere. I will find out when it comes off. Probably could use a rebuild. First things first find out how bad the motor is and decide what I am going to do about it.

For the record I am not blaming Keith or Arizona Dyno chip for any of this.

Its has more to do with the oil consumption than the dyno or tuner.