I need help people!!!!!

[DrumSTW3]

Oh, and about the turbos, I think JDM's success with the Saleen S/C speaks for itself.

[ASUSMC]

Oh, and about the turbos, I think JDM's success with the Saleen S/C speaks for itself.

The Saleen blower in comparison to others is a pile...

Everyone elses success with turbos speaks a lot louder. Unless you wanna go race Gene or Eades!

[BurnTire]

I thought the Saleen Blower is a Whipple?
They Rule the turbos.

[ASUSMC]

I thought the Saleen Blower is a Whipple?
They Rule the turbos.

If it is a Whipple (i'm not sure) it doesn't make quite the power that the regular ones that say Whipple on the side do. Blaine's car is a good example of that

[BurnTire]

I am not sure, but it is a twin screw.

[6Jeff6]

No way on the Terms!!!! SN95s belong on cinder blocks in front of trailers. I know the list of stuff i could do, telling me to "build a motor" or "beef up my rearend" doesn't really help. I need specifics. Brands, models, etc!!! Thanks

Hey man. If you're not going to do the work yourself you'll have to pick a shop.
That'll be your first decision then.
You tell them what you want and they'll tell you $$$$ it's going to cost. Unless you're going to do all the work yourself our prices won't make a difference.


Jeff

[6Jeff6]

If it is a Whipple (i'm not sure) it doesn't make quite the power that the regular ones that say Whipple on the side do. Blaine's car is a good example of that

Whipples are a tick bigger aren't they???


Jeff

[LSlayer]

Whipples are a tick bigger aren't they???


Jeff

The Whipple and Saleen are the same size for the 3V at 2.3L, the KBs on the other hand are 2.4L older models and 2.6L for the newer ones.

As far as building the car I would concentrate on suspension and drivetrain. I think its better to get the power you already have to the ground before you make even more. BMR or CHE LCAs along with one of their UCA's are what I'd run(I run CHE myself). Poly/Rod-end to keep binding at bay(wish I'd chose that option). All their stuff is good. If you plan on lowering or you already are lowered scoop some LCA relocation brackets to get that extra bite. The stock springs are good for weight transfer drag racing wise but you may want to look into aftermarket shocks. I have tokico D-specs and lovem. As for Driveline, I don't know a ton bout autos but maybe a 3000 stall converter along with some 3.73s or 4.10s in the back attached to a Trutrac or Detroit locker if your not scared and will primarily be drag racing. May want to beef up the tranny good after 500RWTQ. Level 10 is the only shop I can think of right now building up 5R55S trannys. Other than that may want to look into other proven autos. JDM is the man when it comes to saleen tunes hands down but be careful if he builds you anything. I've heard some horror stories from a few individuals. Def build that motor fore you crank the boost to much more. 03-04 Cobra rotating assym is the popular choice. The stock block has withstood 800hp without issue to my knowledge.

Hope this helps guide you in the right direction.
-Tim

[DrumSTW3]

Thanks Tim. That's some good advice.


To clarify... there is no budget... It IS a daily driver.... I don't care why I should go with a KB or Whipple or Paxton or Vortech or turbo I HAVE A SALEEN!!!!!!! That is not changing, nor is the fact that it is an automatic. I have a shop doing the work, but I will be getting the parts.

I understand the tranny can only handle about 600 HP, I'll probably go with Level 10s stage 3 kit. I am looking between Maximum Motorsports Drag kit, Eibachs kit, and AirRides drag kit. The brakes will be Baer 14" 2 piece with 6 pistons up front, 2 in the rear. Tires will be BFGoodrich Drag Radials for the track and KDWS for daily driving. I will be doing 3.73s in the rear. I am looking for anyone that has had good or bad experiences with any motor mods. Who do I go to for heads, cams, pistons, etc. What questions should I ask when shopping around, etc. Bolt-on are easy...they can come, blow up, and go. The internals of the power plant is where I'm a little green. Thanks for everyone's opinions

[LSlayer]

Oh and cop a 1-piece D/S while your at it. You'll lose about 31lbs of rotaional mass. Average E/T drop is around .2-.3 secs for the spydershaft. I recommend spydershaft or BMRs CF piece although its expensive as hell. The main reason I like these two is due to the fact they come with a new pinion flange/yoke instead of using an adapter like so many other aftermarket D/S which tend to vibrate if not installed properly. BMR take it a step further with CF which is supposed to soak up NVH that would normally be present in a metal D/S. Only thing I don't know about BMRs is how it works with Autos. Everyone who's ran the Spydershaft has had nothing but good things to say, myself included, and I think I'm the only person to ever have issues with it at first. Issues fixed now. Works with autos and manuals too. Get a 1-piece D/S

Spydershaft=$479 Maybe $499
BMR= $1,000(or close to)