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Thread: clicking rear and e-brake

  1. #1
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    clicking rear and e-brake

    I've really been raggin on my car lately and I just noticed a clicking sound comming from the passenger side rear. It started out as just one click that I'd hear when I intialy took off or backed up. While I was test driving it I actually heard a few clicks in sequence while making a right turn. The last time I heard this noise was when I had my 04 cobra, which was still under warrenty. Well end result on that one, the dealer took care of it. They told me it was my C.V. joint and that they replaced the whole half shaft. Does anyone have some insight for me? I was thinking of just replaceing both half shafts in hopes that it takes care of it. Let me know what you think.

    Also I replaced all 4 brakes this weekend, pads and rotors. I noticed that while parking my car on my driveway, which has a pretty steep slope to it, that the e-brake would'nt stop the car from rolling back. I never adjusted the the cable or even messed w/ the springs. I figure that the new pads had more material and would be a snugger fit. And it was I had to turn back the piston quite abit to get the calipers back on. Any tips?
    Joe
    Whipple Supercharger w140ax, Billet flow idlers, 3.5 upper, 4lb Metco lower, Pfab IC tank, Accufab throttle body, Jlt Intake, KB Boost-a-pump, Bassani X pipe w/ cats, Bassani cat back, Lakewood 70/30 front struts, Centerforce dual Friction clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, Billet flow irs brace, H&R race springs, Autometer Boost/Fp/Dynojet Wideband Commander, Xcal 2 tuned by Greg@Ret.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jophis37 View Post
    I've really been raggin on my car lately and I just noticed a clicking sound comming from the passenger side rear. It started out as just one click that I'd hear when I intialy took off or backed up. While I was test driving it I actually heard a few clicks in sequence while making a right turn. The last time I heard this noise was when I had my 04 cobra, which was still under warrenty. Well end result on that one, the dealer took care of it. They told me it was my C.V. joint and that they replaced the whole half shaft. Does anyone have some insight for me? I was thinking of just replaceing both half shafts in hopes that it takes care of it. Let me know what you think.

    Also I replaced all 4 brakes this weekend, pads and rotors. I noticed that while parking my car on my driveway, which has a pretty steep slope to it, that the e-brake would'nt stop the car from rolling back. I never adjusted the the cable or even messed w/ the springs. I figure that the new pads had more material and would be a snugger fit. And it was I had to turn back the piston quite abit to get the calipers back on. Any tips?
    Joe

    if you are not able to fix it and you are in phoenix bring it by we can take a look at it for you. as for tips I realy have none

  3. #3
    Administrator BurnTire's Avatar
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    Joe

    Jack the car up take the ebrake off and grab the tire from both ends and see if it has any play in it. I had the same sounds when I had the LVL 5 fiasco going on. It was the wheel bearings/hubs. How may miles are on the car?

    Did this noise start after the brake install or prior?

    I parking brake is pretty simple on these cars. It is either a cable problem or in the self adjusting handle. I would take a look at things on jack stands again. Make sure their is no air in the lines also.
    Sold
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  4. #4
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    No air in the brake system, so we're good there. The clicking started happening before the brake install. I'll jack it back up this weekend and see what I can figure out. Thanks guys
    Whipple Supercharger w140ax, Billet flow idlers, 3.5 upper, 4lb Metco lower, Pfab IC tank, Accufab throttle body, Jlt Intake, KB Boost-a-pump, Bassani X pipe w/ cats, Bassani cat back, Lakewood 70/30 front struts, Centerforce dual Friction clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, Billet flow irs brace, H&R race springs, Autometer Boost/Fp/Dynojet Wideband Commander, Xcal 2 tuned by Greg@Ret.

  5. #5
    Administrator BurnTire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jophis37 View Post
    No air in the brake system, so we're good there. The clicking started happening before the brake install. I'll jack it back up this weekend and see what I can figure out. Thanks guys
    See if you can pin point the side it is coming from by driving near a wall or something. Is it a light click or a major clunk.
    Sold
    2004 Cobra, Whipple ,TH-400
    Burning Corn
    9.97 - 135.5

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BurnTire View Post
    See if you can pin point the side it is coming from by driving near a wall or something. Is it a light click or a major clunk.
    It diff comes from the passenger side. It's not a clunk at all. It sounds similar to the sound you would imagine a socket would make as it rolls from the front of a small plastic tool box to the rear of the tool box. I say that because I keep a small tool kit w/ me just incase something minor happens when I'm out racing. And at first I thought that might be it, but after removing the tool box I realized it wasn't. It's just a small single click that happens the first time you pull out in a forward or a backward motion. Only one time when I took a right turn did it actually click after already being in motion and it click a few times as I completed the turn. It didn't do it again, and almost always does it when I backout of the garage and again when I start out going forward.
    Whipple Supercharger w140ax, Billet flow idlers, 3.5 upper, 4lb Metco lower, Pfab IC tank, Accufab throttle body, Jlt Intake, KB Boost-a-pump, Bassani X pipe w/ cats, Bassani cat back, Lakewood 70/30 front struts, Centerforce dual Friction clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, Billet flow irs brace, H&R race springs, Autometer Boost/Fp/Dynojet Wideband Commander, Xcal 2 tuned by Greg@Ret.

  7. #7
    Senior Member 5.0Stanger's Avatar
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    The clicking sounds like a possible CV problem. I know that the joints in the Cobras are supposed to be stout (one would figure), but anything can/will break.
    '03 Cobra - Mildly modded. A work in progress. 12.566 @ 110.755, 1.89 60' on street tires
    '93 Notch - Looks faster than it is.
    '72 F100 4x4 - Dormant, for now.
    Race '99 L - 12.40 @ 110


  8. #8
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    How could I tell if the cv joints are going/are bad?

    Car has 10300 miles. Not that it matters, you could brake something driving off the lot if you really wanted to.
    Whipple Supercharger w140ax, Billet flow idlers, 3.5 upper, 4lb Metco lower, Pfab IC tank, Accufab throttle body, Jlt Intake, KB Boost-a-pump, Bassani X pipe w/ cats, Bassani cat back, Lakewood 70/30 front struts, Centerforce dual Friction clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, Billet flow irs brace, H&R race springs, Autometer Boost/Fp/Dynojet Wideband Commander, Xcal 2 tuned by Greg@Ret.

  9. #9
    Administrator BurnTire's Avatar
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    Do you hear the noise while turning only?
    Only when loading or unloading the drive train?
    Or is it all the time?
    Sold
    2004 Cobra, Whipple ,TH-400
    Burning Corn
    9.97 - 135.5

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BurnTire View Post
    Do you hear the noise while turning only?
    Only when loading or unloading the drive train?
    Or is it all the time?

    Okay, so who can tell me how to get the e- brake spring back on?

    Also, I took the wheels off, and removed the brakes so they wouldn't give a resistance while turning the rear axles. I don't hear any clicking or feel any play while turning the wheels.

    I only hear the noise/clicking when I first roll forward or roll backward from a dead stop. It's one click and then it goes away. I only heard it click more than once, one time, and that was during a right turn, it actually clicked like 2-3 times. But was fine after that, and then didn't do it again, even when I tried to make it happen. But if I back out of my garage it will happen, then when I pull forward on the street it will happen.

    Back to the e-brake spring, I went to Autozone to see if they sell a tool to compress the spring but they said that it's easier to just buy new calipers. Does anyone know the secret to getting these back on?
    Whipple Supercharger w140ax, Billet flow idlers, 3.5 upper, 4lb Metco lower, Pfab IC tank, Accufab throttle body, Jlt Intake, KB Boost-a-pump, Bassani X pipe w/ cats, Bassani cat back, Lakewood 70/30 front struts, Centerforce dual Friction clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, Billet flow irs brace, H&R race springs, Autometer Boost/Fp/Dynojet Wideband Commander, Xcal 2 tuned by Greg@Ret.

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