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Thread: Chasis set up

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  1. #1
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    Chasis set up

    OK... I've read some about the center of gravity (CG), and instant center (IC). It is starting to make sense to me now. Has anyone done the math and the balancing act to determine how our lower control arms should be modified to get the traction needed at the strip?

    There are a dozen or so ads in the magazines for lower control arms, but if they are in the same position as the stock arms the gains will be minimal (Only the advantage of the pinion angle if you can adjust the lower arm).

    I've only seen one TINY insert in an ad that lists two little brackets to change the angle of the lca's. I believe that this is the mod that will make the biggest traction gain.

    You know that for the NMRA guys to be turning 9's on street radials they have found the holy grail in chasis tuning. Is this their secret?

    Comments?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Indy's Avatar
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    I'll let you know soon. That is what we are going to be working on with my Mach next. I need to work on making it hook off the line now that I have a T/C and trans that work. That way I'll see the full potential from my 3500stall and built trans. I'll let you know what works as soon as I make a few changes. I'm not even going to start using the bottle again until the Mach hooks off the line.

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    Hey Indy,

    From what I've read it all works together. If you set up the car without NO2 you will have to re-adjust everything once you start using the bottle. Believe it or not my neighbor has 340 RWHP, 486 gears, 4-spd, gutted 69 Camaro using MT E.T. Streets and he has TOO MUCH hook at the line. He has to run 20+ psi in the tires to get them to spin at all. He managed to finally get traction by using the instant center to shift weight. Now he is working to lessen his traction. I've found some really good short articles on the internet. I'll make a copy and drop it off at the shop if you want?

    From what I can see of the aftermarket kits, all they do is drop the LCA connection to the differential a couple of inches. Which raises the IC into the 100+% range planting the rear tires harder when you pull the trigger.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Indy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsnider View Post
    I've found some really good short articles on the internet. I'll make a copy and drop it off at the shop if you want?
    Thanks I'll read any info I can get my eyes on. I've done some research on this in the past now its time to use what I have learned. I'm going to find what works best with both set ups, then find the happy medium.

    I found alot of good info at BaselineSuspensions.com check it out when you have a chance if you haven't already come across it.
    Last edited by INDY; 03-17-07 at 08:47 PM.

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    Interesting... I hadn't seen "Baselinesuspensions.com" but the info I read was cut directly from their web site? The coat hangar/springs and the refrigerator analogy's were both the same. It's good stuff. I can see many of your shops cars soon with 1.4-60's times on MUCH smaller tire/wheel combinations.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Indy's Avatar
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    I'm going to try to find time to plot my suspension this week. Then I'll figure out what I need to do to relocate the UCA mount position. This should make a huge difference in how the Mach applies the power to the ground. I'll post up what the results when I get it dailed in.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Olivas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsnider View Post
    Hey Indy,

    From what I've read it all works together. If you set up the car without NO2 you will have to re-adjust everything once you start using the bottle. Believe it or not my neighbor has 340 RWHP, 486 gears, 4-spd, gutted 69 Camaro using MT E.T. Streets and he has TOO MUCH hook at the line. He has to run 20+ psi in the tires to get them to spin at all. He managed to finally get traction by using the instant center to shift weight. Now he is working to lessen his traction. I've found some really good short articles on the internet. I'll make a copy and drop it off at the shop if you want?

    From what I can see of the aftermarket kits, all they do is drop the LCA connection to the differential a couple of inches. Which raises the IC into the 100+% range planting the rear tires harder when you pull the trigger.
    Is there any mention of how this affects handling through the corners?? Do you have any plans for beefing up the differential / axels if you're gonna be hitting the rear end that hard??
    2003 Azure Blue Mach 1
    IUP - 5spd
    18" Black Saleen Rims
    245/40/18 Front 285/35/18 Rear
    Bassani Catted X-pipe
    Borla Cat Back
    C&L CAI
    PHP Spacer
    Meziere Electric Water Pump
    FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft

    MGW Orange Shifter
    Steeda 3 pt Strut Tower Brace
    MM Full Length Subframes
    MM Chrome C/C Plates
    MM Lower Control Arms
    H&R Race Springs
    Variuos MGW Interior Pieces

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    Hi Ernie,

    I don't have any immediate plans on changing the carrier or axles since I'm staying with the motor as it left the factory. Also having an automatic in my opinion lessons the severity of the shock to the driveline.

    I'd really like to have an all original powerplant in the 12's!

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