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Thread: Bottle pressure control and more pics

  1. #1
    Member 04snake's Avatar
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    Bottle pressure control and more pics

    The interior and trunk is mostly back together, bottle is mounted at a 30* angle and I just got the NX Fire&Ice controller so that is the last of the pieces for the trunk and it is starting to look bad ass. I think I found a spot for the controller, not sure:




    The fan looks like it is right off of a PC's CPU!



    I got to see the entire SpeedHut custom made gauges lit up, I was so blown away I took some pictures with all the lights out in the garage. The green perfectly matches the SVT ones, although the illuminated needles are much brighter, but I think that will help me to know what is going on with center cluster, without having to focus on them or move my eyes directly to them. Yup I was so excited I left the frikin flash on when snapping pics in the dark and didn't figure out they would not show up like at night until I got home? what a putz! Well I'll have to try again for the money night time shots but here is the best of what I took today:



    These gauges not only look good but they are programmable, the button is to set upper and/or lower thesholds to trigger a VERY bright red warning light. Someone asked what that was for and I completely forgot it was so long ago when I ordered them, but they weren't cheap so they are full function.




    My magic black box is wired in now to reprogram the Cruise Control. When you flip the "CC ARM" switch my cruise control becomes a momentary switch for my LINE LOCK! thats right, not only can auto's launch off of a footbrake, but so can I with my stick! I roll up to the beams, arm my CC, touch the brake about 1/2 way, not a full pump like for burnouts, put my left thumb on the CC button on the stock steeringwheel, now I am holding the car on the front brakes with my thumb! Now I have one foot for the clutch and one for the go pedal, I then will release the clutch enough to push the car forward to pre-stage. Then with the clutch all the way up with no play I will light the second light, stomp the gas to pull the rpms up to the 2 stage limit of 5500 and with the clutch heating up and the front suspension actually loaded I release my thumb and clutch on the 3rd yellow and hold the F on.

    I went with a rather large purge button to help when I have gloves on. I will always do a quick purge right after the burnout because the way it is wired, the purge will only work if the NOS systems are armed, so I will still have a chance to reach down and flip the NOS arming system, if I blip the purge and nothing happens:



    When attempting to attach the E-brake, they didn't have enough slack to be attached to the new lowers, so a couple L brackets were required to be fabbed up:




    Just a couple more things left to do like installing the underneath style anti-roll bar I just ordered from Miller Race Cars (yeah the same guys who lost on Pinks), a super sweet setup that will be welded to the Moser case and is specific for Stangs, the FRPP hood pins, the rear seat delete using matching carpet that just arrived, the bottle heater and controller has to be wired in and a blow down tube installed & vented outside of the trunk and finally a solution to the mufflers/tail pipes. The trick StainlessWorks mufflers barely fit in the body opening in front of the yoke but come too far back to allow room for a bend up over the axles, so I need to find a shorter high flow muffler or I will have to go with bullets.



    I can almost smell the burnout box now!

  2. #2
    Administrator BurnTire's Avatar
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    Looks good Stu.
    Sold
    2004 Cobra, Whipple ,TH-400
    Burning Corn
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  3. #3
    Member 04snake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BurnTire View Post
    Looks good Stu.
    I just wish I wasn't such a tard and managed to get pics of the gauges all lit up, very hard to imagine how good they really looked. it made me even more glad I didn't do the A-pillar gauges.

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