My track rat is getting closer - NONO Dialup!

[04snake]

Much of my extensive modding on my Cobra started last winter after geting bit by the track bug in 05 but seeing as I now only have about a dozen payments left, I guess I can't complain, at least if I wipeout my poor cut up Snake at the track I won't have to sell a kidney. I got ALL the NHRA legal mods to 9.99+ out of the way last year so I could pass a complete inspection, so I can road trip anywhere and not get booted. Yeah it means you have to cut up the car a little but that is what I wanted to do, not for everybody, but this will be my track car for many years. Taking my time and saving to do things right was an exersize in patience that made me question my sanity many, many times over the last 12 mos, but the wait is getting closer to being over.

The full race 9" Moser tricked out solid is installed. All is left to do is select an anti-roll setup to go with, I'm hoping to go with a custom under the tubes setup so I can run the 3" stainless over the axles and out the back, if not well it will get turn downs.



I took Torque boxes from Laurel Mountain Mustang and had additional metal added and the guy that welds for me is amazing, the rear will not rip out of the body. The car will rip in half before the rear can be pulled from the back half.





I'm starting with Lakewoods, they were cheap enough but if I need to throw something more expensive then I will but I think I will be able to figure out how get it to hook with them.


My setup is a little different in that it has fully functional ABS, that's right my 9" was custom created by Kevin @ WickedMotorsports with exciter rings and uses GT ABS sensors that plugged right into my Cobra's harness, neat huh?


This Moser case was expensive but it has 4 huge Grade bolts thru the case that give extra support to the carrier bearings, overkill for 600-650HP maybe but I don't like bringing a knife to a gunfight, I prefer a magnum and an ankle gun. The gun drilled, star flanged 35 spline axles and lightened gear set means I am only giving up a few dozen pounds to a 8.8 built up to handle real track use and the weight is where I want it. Detroit locker with 3.50's will let me show up on the street occasionally because this car will remain registered and psuedo street legal (cats are there but hollowed out), but I will probably trailer it to any place I decide to look for trouble to save on wear and tear on my back in the Kirkeys. I had 4.10's in my IRS braced pumpkin, but I was running out of gear with 450hp, not sure if I will need something inbetween, stay with the 26"ers instead of the 28" slicks I was planning on, dunno just another thing to be decided at the track.



I do have to decide if I am going to send out the driveshaft out to get another 2" added, the shaft is in there 4" but not as deep as it was before. The difference might not be a big deal but if drivetrain guys tell me I am risking a tail shaft spline failure, well I'm off to FedEx to send it out to DSS.


I stayed with the Steig IV ported original Eaton roots blower, instead of a $$ twin screw, for the Big Block like torque to shoot for 1.3x 60fts with my 281. I am going to spin the livin crap out of it with a 6# lower to see 16+psi but to run the car on an index I added an oversize Vortec IC tank I can stuff with about 10lbs of ice and an upgraded Meziere high outout IC pump to help control the heatsoak thru increased intercooler circulation. Then I decided a window switch controlled dry shot directly ported 4" from the blower inlet spraying almost directly on the intercooler would be another way I could control the downstream IAT temps and run out the backdoor like a raped ape. My setup will be much like alky injection, finding a way to get the most out if the existing HP but with a little kick added. Armed with some different jets up to a 125 shot I should be able to adjust to the condtitions no matter if it is hot or cold and run any 10 sec dial I need to. I am betting that my ported Plenum nozzle location will hit harder than a young Mike Tyson but we shall see! Still waiting on the Fire/Ice Heater/Fan setup to control bottle pressure and then we can finish mounting the Bottle in the trunk next to the battery box and BAP.






Still need to finish up the interior, radio delete gauge cluster, corner pod bezel, boost overlay mod, install the black box to use the cruise control to trigger purge and line lock and a little carpentry to cover with a hunk of carpet to put where the rear seat was, but Rome wasn't built in a day, I'm just glad that I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel, still a long way to go but it is starting to feel like it might have been worth it. ;)

[BurnTire]

Stu
Looks like you have been busy. I like the ABS setup. I priced a 9" moser rear and it really isn't much more than a built DTS unit. What are your ET Goals. Do you have a full cage or just a 6 point roll bar?

[04snake]

Stu
Looks like you have been busy. I like the ABS setup. I priced a 9" moser rear and it really isn't much more than a built DTS unit. What are your ET Goals. Do you have a full cage or just a 6 point roll bar?

I am setting it up to run 10.0 index. It won't ever have a 10 point or a chute, the over built cromoly, thru the floor, cross braced, connected to cromoly boxed subframe is the protection capsule I promised the boss so all I need to worry about is fire and the properly wired kill switch that actually disconnects the alternator is my best scheme to deal with that. I want to be able to race 10.5 street legal tire or bracket race without the juice. The shiet I went thru to get all the fuel a returnless system can pump should allow me to NOS jet into the nines, but that will be just to get a slip.

I am already planning on having a guy build be a REAL racecar in a couple years that will require a special license so this will always be my 10 sec Real Street stick shifted funwagon.

[BurnTire]

I have the same plan. I want to build fox body race car.

I was just curious about the cage. The tracks here are cracking down on cars exceeding 135 MPH regardless of ET. You are required to have a full cage per NHRA rules at 9.99 or exceeding 135.

[04snake]

I have the same plan. I want to build fox body race car.

I was just curious about the cage. The tracks here are cracking down on cars exceeding 135 MPH regardless of ET. You are required to have a full cage per NHRA rules at 9.99 or exceeding 135.

Yup that is true but after getting the solid to hook and start getting 1.3x 60 ft's if you run more than 135 out the back door, you will be under 10 unless you missed a gear in there. I make an effort to know the track officials and the racer associations and will have to back off the NOS if I go to fast or too quick. You see guys with DR's and IRS with giant twin screws that fly out the back door at 135+ because their first 330ft is not that great.

it will be a balancing act and might take some trial and error but that 9.99 barrier means a license as well as cutting the firewall for bars going forward and across the dash, which really means it is not a street car anymore, so I drew the line there!

[50 BMG]

You are required to have a full cage per NHRA rules at 9.99 or exceeding 135.

Didn't know that one on the trap speed.

But thanks for saving me the money, now I have no reason to go to Fireslick.

[BurnTire]

Didn't know that one on the trap speed.

But thanks for saving me the money, now I have no reason to go to Fireslick.

Speedworld has cracked down also.
No Lemon from 1320 ran 136 and was told not to come back to the track until he has the correct safety equipment.

9.99 or exceed 135 and a full cage is required.
This is the NHRA rule and the tracks are enforcing it.

I am going to up the boost to 21 and thats it for me. That will put me in the 133-134 MPH range. Mid to low 10 ET. I am not hacking up this car anymore with a full cage.

Time to plan the next project. 8 second fox body.

How is the car coming along James?