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Thread: Longtubes

  1. #1
    Senior Member Wharf Rat's Avatar
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    Longtubes

    Finally got my longtubes today!

    American Racing 1 7/8 inch with o/r X then sent off to Jet-Hot. These things look awesome. Too bad they'll be under the car and never be seen again.

    Install this weekend and dyno next week if everything goes well.



    Last edited by Wharf Rat; 06-07-11 at 08:15 PM.
    2012 GT500 543/533 11.7@120
    1995 5.0 minute or two per lap

  2. #2
    Member billyboss's Avatar
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    headers

    they look good

    2012 BOSS 302 #0042
    1995 Mustang GTS
    1985 1/2 Mustang SVO
    1977 Granada
    1973 V8 Pinto under construction
    2006 Mustang GT Saleen supercharger11.66@115.84 SOLD
    1996 Mustang COBRA Vortech Supercharger SOLD
    1983 Mustang GT SOLD
    1970 Mustang Mach1 351 Cleveland SOLD
    1965 Mustang 11.90 1/4 miles SOLD
    1970 Mustang Boss 302 Grabber Green w/white interior TOTALED by front end loader
    1968 GT 500 KR Dual Quad/Automatic/A/C SOLD
    1965 Sunbeam Tiger




    11.66@115.84

    2012 Boss302 #42
    851/2 SVO

  3. #3
    Senior Member WildBill's Avatar
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    Should be a nice addition to your other mods! Killer sound and some HP to boot.
    WILD BILL
    PRO-AMERICAN

    TorchRed 2003 MACH1 (Louise)
    "I remember my fallen brothers so that they may live on."
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

  4. #4
    Senior Member OUR P51's Avatar
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    Congrats, after the dyno, you need to test the E.T.!

  5. #5
    Senior Member Wharf Rat's Avatar
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    There are many good write-ups on installing headers in the 05-2010 cars. Having done this on my 07 and now 2011 here are my install notes:

    - Car on ramps, remove cai, battery & box, belly cover, cross brace, and h-pipe. Spray PB Blaster on the stock studs/header bolts.
    - undo steering shaft. 1 bolt where it connects to the u-joint at the rack and 2 bolts under the dash. Put your seatbelt through the steering wheel so it doesn't turn (bad things can happen if it does).
    - loosen any stock header bolts that are easy to get to. 1/2 a turn is all you need- you'll be taking the studs out in a minute.
    - remove starter
    - remove both engine mount nuts from the top, 2 bolts on tranny mount, and jack up motor. Don't be a pussy. This thing hasta come up about 2 inches or so.
    - Loosen remaining stock header bolts then remove the stock studs. Pull the stock headers and gaskets out.
    - LEARN MY LESSON. Get a 10x1.25 tap and clean out the threads in the heads. I didn't do this last time and it made threading bolts very sketchy. WAS MUCH EASIER THIS TIME. Ford basically wrenches those stock studs into the heads till it mashes against the threads which buggers them up greatly. Use some anti-seize on the tap and when it binds stop and take it out and clean it off. You'll appreciate what you are doing first when you see how much crap you're cleaning out then second when you screw the new header bolts right in w/out any drama. NOTE: the cars built before 8/10 have a different header bolt pattern than those built after. Goofy shit but be aware.
    - install headers (GOT FRIEND?)
    - install starter. People bitch about this but mine went right in.
    - drop steering shaft below motor mounts and install motor mounts.
    - lower motor and install steering shaft, upper motor mount bolts, and tranny mount bolts.
    - install mid-pipe and O2 sensors.
    - install cai, belly cover, and battery.
    - download tune and enjoy.

    Other notes:
    Belly cover- this is the big plastic cover under the motor that you have to unbolt to change the oil. You can't totally remove it unless you cut the sides next to the bars that hold it in place.
    O2 sensors- for the fronts all I did was undo the clips where they mount behind the motor (driver side) and on top of tranny (passenger side). The fronts reached fine but the rears required O2 extenders (mine are turned off so it was pointless to hook them up but I didn't succeed in finding plugs this week so this was the easy solution).
    JetHot- Looks great and should help keep down underhood temps. BUT- if you send them in, see if they can tape off or somehow not coat the slipfit connections. Was a pain in the nuts to get the pipes to all slide together peacefully.

    The ARH headers rock. Install was cake and fitiment was awesome. Sounds good when you put the hammer down but is surprisingly docile at idle and while cruising around town. Dyno numbers coming shortly. My best guess assdyno is over the O/R x-pipe and stock headers that I got about 10 rwhp peak but 20ish rwhp/rwtq under the curve. My assdyno doesn't have the best calibration so who knows. Maybe sound clips someday, too.

    Thanks to Bill (Billyboss) for the install help!
    2012 GT500 543/533 11.7@120
    1995 5.0 minute or two per lap

  6. #6
    Senior Member Wharf Rat's Avatar
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    Run 12 is Boss intake, JLT CAI, Magnaflow o/r x, and Magnaflow street catback. Run 16 swaps in American Racing longtubes with o/x in place of stock headers and Magnaflow o/r x.

    Big gains down low, nothing mid-range, and 5-10 rwhp/rwtq from 5 grand up.

    2012 GT500 543/533 11.7@120
    1995 5.0 minute or two per lap

  7. #7
    Senior Member Wharf Rat's Avatar
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    Here's a graph af everything I've done along the way. All done on Prodyno's dyno with BBR tunes.

    I'm done for a while unless the FRPP 90mm TB ever hits the market and is worth anything. Gonna sit back and see where FRPP and Comp go with cams...

    2012 GT500 543/533 11.7@120
    1995 5.0 minute or two per lap

  8. #8
    Senior Member WildBill's Avatar
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    Nice gains!

    Where are the vids of the runs fer sound? Bet it sounds sweet!

    Good Work!
    WILD BILL
    PRO-AMERICAN

    TorchRed 2003 MACH1 (Louise)
    "I remember my fallen brothers so that they may live on."
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

  9. #9
    Senior Member Wharf Rat's Avatar
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    Yeah might hafta get the vid cam out this weekend and snap a few. Put a MSD 2-step in that I need to properly test, too!
    2012 GT500 543/533 11.7@120
    1995 5.0 minute or two per lap

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