Droppin the trans w/ long tubes

[thirtytwovalve]

Hello,

So I'm going to be pullin the 3650 from the mach to replace the synchros etc. I'm running Mac long tubes and a prochamber. I know I have to pull the prochamber but would there be any issue with unbolting the trans from the bell housing, then unbolting the bellhousing? I know the TOB and the fork will be left behind but I'm going to put them back (prolly gunna replace the TOB and the pilot bearing while I'm down there and inspect the clutch. OR do you think if I unbolt the headers and just let them sit where they are I would be able to get the trans and bell housing out in one shot? I guess while I'm askin questions I read a link here Tremec 3650 Overview to fill the trans up with 3.2 quarts of AMS oil ATF AMSOIL - Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)

Anyone have any experiance w/ that oil? Do you like it? I did a lot of research and the reason the synchros go bad is because the when Ford chose to put the fluid in it chose (mercon V?) it had too high of a sulfur contact which caused premature wear and failure of the synchros. They chose to go with a fluid that was cheaper than what tremec had suggested they put in the transmissions. I've read other reviews from people swapping to the AMS ATF into the 3650 and having the shifting issues resolved.

Heres a pic of the NIB synchros I bought from a member on svtp for $200 shipped.
part #s 1r3z-7124-da and 3r3z-7124-ba


Thanks,
John

[SloSVO]

John, I can't tell you about the 3650.. But on my Mach, Bassani mid-lenghts, I had to pull the passenger side header to be able to remove the C-4 and to to be able to pull the T56 thats in it now.. I didn't have to pull the drivers side at all.. One big help was the car having a tubular K member.. For sure!!..

[thirtytwovalve]

Right on, I appreciate the help. I've been searchin for the last hour or so and it sounds like you have to pull the passenger side header since it hugs the starter bump so closely. Wish I had the $$ to go w/ a tubular K member, I'm jealous haha

[WildBill]

Hello,

So I'm going to be pullin the 3650 from the mach to replace the synchros etc. I'm running Mac long tubes and a prochamber. I know I have to pull the prochamber but would there be any issue with unbolting the trans from the bell housing, then unbolting the bellhousing? I know the TOB and the fork will be left behind but I'm going to put them back (prolly gunna replace the TOB and the pilot bearing while I'm down there and inspect the clutch. OR do you think if I unbolt the headers and just let them sit where they are I would be able to get the trans and bell housing out in one shot? I guess while I'm askin questions I read a link here Tremec 3650 Overview to fill the trans up with 3.2 quarts of AMS oil ATF AMSOIL - Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)

Anyone have any experiance w/ that oil? Do you like it? I did a lot of research and the reason the synchros go bad is because the when Ford chose to put the fluid in it chose (mercon V?) it had too high of a sulfur contact which caused premature wear and failure of the synchros. They chose to go with a fluid that was cheaper than what tremec had suggested they put in the transmissions. I've read other reviews from people swapping to the AMS ATF into the 3650 and having the shifting issues resolved.

Heres a pic of the NIB synchros I bought from a member on svtp for $200 shipped.
part #s 1r3z-7124-da and 3r3z-7124-ba


Thanks,
John

You cant pull the bellhousing off the 3650 with the trans in the car like you can the t56. You access the bolts that attach the bellhousing from inside the bell.
You'll have to pull the passenger header to remove the 3650 with your longtubes............too bad you don't have Kooks LTs...............you don't have to pull them even with a SFI bell on a C-4

[thirtytwovalve]

Gotcha, I noticed that when I read back thru the Tremec manual. Gunna tear into it tomorrow...

[thirtytwovalve]

Do I have to drop the kmember to get this header out? So far I have the mid pipe, driveshaft, JLT RAI, and almost 3 of the header bolts off. If I have to drop the kmember im going to throw in the towel, I dont have the tools to do that.

Thanks

[IMSHAKN]

Shouldn't have to, but it would probably make life much easier for you as far as access goes.

[thirtytwovalve]

Alright, I'll give it another shot. Havin a hard time gettin the bolts off of the flange w/ the A/C lines runnin right next to the bolts.

[IMSHAKN]

Just take a break from it for a while if you get frustrated, have a beer, and then come back to it if you're getting frustrated. Some creativity and finesse will go a long way as with anytime you've gotta work in a tight space. Still gonna be a PITA, I'd personally be dropping the K in this case just because I've gotten to the point where I don't care to try and save time only to get pissed and frustrated. Good luck with that man, if I didn't have so much crap going on I'd offer to help as I've been in the mood to start working on cars again.

[WildBill]

Do I have to drop the kmember to get this header out? So far I have the mid pipe, driveshaft, JLT RAI, and almost 3 of the header bolts off. If I have to drop the kmember im going to throw in the towel, I dont have the tools to do that.

Thanks

Nope...........it's just a pain in the BUTT!!!!!!!