The Official Solid Axle Thread

[BurnTire]

Well guys those of you with solids on your terminators or any other mustangs post up your setup for those considering the swap.

Thanks

[BurnTire]

Well guys post up your solid set ups.

[AZSonicSnake]

don't have too much in the way of power add ons, but have had a set of d and d tubular control arms installed, along with a set of frpp 4.10's put in. also had the trac loc specially built by Devon at performance solutions. that grabs like a bat out of hell!!! Performance solutions, i must say has been just an awesome shop to me. i have been very happy with thier work. Dan and Devon run a kick ass shop.

allmost forgot to add my 28 spline mosier axles, and the nitto 555 dr's.

[QTRPONY]

MM SFC's
MM LCA's
Stock UCA's (for now)
MM Pan Hard Bar
MM Super Race springs
D-Specs
GT Brakes so the 15X10's fit
325/15 MT DR's
31 Spline mosers
4:10's
FRPP Cobra Diff with carbon fiber clutches

What did I forget?

Just pulled the MM Heavy duty torque arm off. Would not recomend that unless you are road racing.

With all this I still get wheel hop. :confused:

Hopefully that will be taken care of with adjustable UCA's.
Now I am pulling low 1.7 60's. Hopefully that will drop to 1.6-1.5 once I get the new UCA's and get it tweaked.
I would be happy with 1.5's with DR's.

[u1arunit]

MM SFC's

With all this I still get wheel hop. :confused:

You hear this Jeff? I think a solid is good but I bet if you use regular ET Streets it would be gone. It is on my car.

That being said, I might get the parts together to install a solid this winter. lol

[BurnTire]

IRS sucks. It looks like a pile of twisted spaghetti noodles under my car. LOL

[QTRPONY]

You hear this Jeff? I think a solid is good but I bet if you use regular ET Streets it would be gone. It is on my car.


Curious why you think going to ET streets would stop wheel hop. I don't think the rubber compound is that much different between the two.

What kind of 60's are you pulling with the ET streets?

[Gene]

MM SFC's
MM LCA's
Stock UCA's (for now)
MM Pan Hard Bar
MM Super Race springs
D-Specs
GT Brakes so the 15X10's fit
325/15 MT DR's
31 Spline mosers
4:10's
FRPP Cobra Diff with carbon fiber clutches

What did I forget?

Just pulled the MM Heavy duty torque arm off. Would not recomend that unless you are road racing.

With all this I still get wheel hop. :confused:

Hopefully that will be taken care of with adjustable UCA's.
Now I am pulling low 1.7 60's. Hopefully that will drop to 1.6-1.5 once I get the new UCA's and get it tweaked.
I would be happy with 1.5's with DR's.



I think your combo of springs and stock UCA's are causing your wheel hop. Here's mine:
Superior 31 spline axles
Ford 31 spline track-lock
3.73 gears
mac diff girdle
Pro3I LCA's with weight jackers
FRPP UCA's
Roush rear springs
I get no hop!

[u1arunit]

Curious why you think going to ET streets would stop wheel hop. I don't think the rubber compound is that much different between the two.

What kind of 60's are you pulling with the ET streets?

Nothing to think about it. I tried both last weekend and I get hop on the DR tires. I used 275/40/17 DRs and got all sorts of hop as my car just plain makes too much power and has an on-off type clutch so it plain wont hook.

The last two runs with my buddies 26/11.50/17 regular ET Streets plain hooked and I got ZERO hop.

The DR in 17" don't have enough flex to harness the power, IMO.

I regularly see mid 1.6 shorts on ET Streets.

[QTRPONY]

I don't think sidewall flex is my problem -I am running 325\15\50's which are a 28 in. tall tire with a 13 in. sidewall.

[QTRPONY]

Anybody looking for a straight axle-got a guy on another board in the local phoenix area has a hell of a deal on a 31 spline set up he has been trying to sell for a few weeks:


Stock 8.8 housing
Detroit True Trac 31 spline diff.
Moser 31 Spline Axles W/ ABS exciter rings installed
3'' Wheel studs
Complete Overhaul Kit (all bearings, seals, shims and gaskets)
Spherical Bushings for upper control arm mounting point
FMS 3.73 ring and pinion

I have well over a grand into this setup and all of it is NEW never even had oil put into it . . .

$900.00 or $1400 with all brake parts . . .



The Truetrac is about $500 and the axles are about $300 a set so if anybody is looking shoot me a PM and I will get you in touch with him.

[BurnTire]

Hey Ratt
Tell us about your setup.
I can tell it hooks well.

[Brakelate]

You guys with wheel hop are missing the point. It's not the height of the sidewall, but the thickness.

Radials have too many plys and don't flex or wrap. The bias ply ET Streets are nice and thin, even on 17's.

The '99 - '01 Cobra was always rumored to have a very weak IRS that was prone to breakage.

That just wasn't the case for me. I made well over 100 passes with 4.30 gears, on bias-ply ET Streets and was consistently down in the 1.68 range for 60' times good for a personal best of 12.5 at a prepped track (Famoso) with my '01 Cobra.

On the street, running 315's helped. But it would still hop a bit. But, any radial DR or street oriented and aired up tire will do that with either a solid or IRS.

Only mod to my suspension was Eibach "Pro-Kit" springs, which theoretically should have hurt, not helped. :icon_wink:

[BurnTire]

I plan to give the ET Streets a try. I know there are a ton of IRS equipped cobras going real fast.

[Brakelate]

I must admit, I was scared to death after reading all the internet hype about broken half-shafts, etc.

People swore instant death, especially running sticky tires, and gears on a stuck track.

As it turns out, tire type and technique can make things happen. I simply put down too many passes to say it was just being lucky.

More breakage comes from trying too hard, running aired up Radial DR's and simply failing to lift once the hop begins.

After my experience being around Terminator owners who run ALOT of passes on sticky tires, I would say the IRS is just as capable and durable as any 8.8 stick axle.

The only negative that I can see, is the 80 lbs of extra weight the IRS carries around. Other than that, the IRS soaks up all the mid-corner asphalt ripples and bumps on my canyon carving commute and at my Open Track events, that would never even be thought possible with a remotely stock solid axle from the factory.

[Wolfpack Speed]

Well guys those of you with solids on your terminators or any other mustangs post up your setup for those considering the swap.

Thanks
8.8, 9" ends, welded tubes, braced, girdle, full spool, 4.10's, 33 spline axles, explorer brake kit, hardcore lowers, double adjustable uppers with solid bushing on both ends, anti-roll bar, qa1 adjustables, welded seams and plated tq boxes, bullitt springs. been 1.43 with the 6-speed, suspension and vehicle weight was pretty jacked up at the time. auto 60's coming soon!!!:beerchug:

[BurnTire]

8.8, 9" ends, welded tubes, braced, girdle, full spool, 4.10's, 33 spline axles, explorer brake kit, hardcore lowers, double adjustable uppers with solid bushing on both ends, anti-roll bar, qa1 adjustables, welded seams and plated tq boxes, bullitt springs. been 1.43 with the 6-speed, suspension and vehicle weight was pretty jacked up at the time. auto 60's coming soon!!!:beerchug:

That is a fricken bad ass setup.

[Wolfpack Speed]

That is a fricken bad ass setup.thanks!:biggrin:

[Brakelate]

KHP's set up sounds bullet proof!

1.43's are strong enough pull the ass out of a cat! :icon_eek:

[BurnTire]

KHP's set up sounds bullet proof!

1.43's are strong enough pull the ass out of a cat! :icon_eek:

Yea he is going to be pulling off some sub 10 second Et's soon.

[Wolfpack Speed]

i think you can throw a solid 1000 hp with my setup! wish i had that much:biggrin:

[P Machy]

Id say, stay with the IRS. 1.5's are more then possible and a few have done them. Best 60' id ever seen on a Mustang was 1.3's but he is on ET DRAGS and spraying his NA Cobra Block with a 125 shot...also dialing in the rear suspension takes alot of work / not some thing just happens in 1 night of TNT.

Best DOT tires are MT ET Street.

M/T ET Street

The Good
No Wheel Hop after a burnout or even a short burnout. Gets very sticky by the 20th run. Gets good bite on a non prepped track, but not as good as the ET DRAGS. Best runs have always been on ET Street.

The Bad
70 ~ 75th run, 60's start rising and rising...90th run, forget it. Also there is a nasty sway the faster you and if you trap beyond 110mph, you should feel the sway by the 660'. Some cant get used to it and some just get the hang of it.

VS

M/T Drag Radial

The Good
Last alot longer then any BFG's, but it may grip just as good. 60's are still good even on it's last leg and feels very solid.

The Bad
Still can produce wheel hop :bash:

15, 16 or 17" tires do not matter on the ET Street for me. Had enough set of them try out and they all netted me around the same PB on 60's.

[BurnTire]

Bump for more solid info.

[Ratt Fink]

I have a 99 GT rearend, with welded tubes, running a Detroit Locker with 3.73 gears and 31 spline Moser axles. It still uses c-clips and the stock 99 GT brakes and springs. Upper control arms are UPR non-adjustable chromoly, with custom aluminum bushings replacing the poly bushings. Uses stock Ford bushings in the "ears" for the upper arm rear connection (worked better than the spherical setup, for me). Lower control arms are UPR non-adjustable square-tube aluminum bars with custom aluminum bushings replacing the poly bushings. Lower arms tied together with the stock 99 GT sway bar. A UPR anti-roll bar is used, along with Lakewood 50/50 rear shocks. Upper and lower torque boxes have been welded, and UMI upper and lower bolt-in strengthening kits are added. 28x10.5x15 ET Drags with stiff wall are used.
Up front, just as important for weight transfer, a UPR chromoly K member and tubular lower A-arms are used with UPR coilover setups on Lakewood 90/10s, and UPR caster/camber plates.
Has put down 1.36 - 1.37 60 ft times with the T56 6-spd and Ram Long-style adjustable clutch setup.

[BurnTire]

Thanks for the info!