MSD 2-Step Launch Control Installation

[BurnTire]

MSD 2-Step Launch Control
Ford Modular Motors 1999 and On
Part Number 8734


The MSD unit pulls spark. The stock limiter pulls fuel.


This is plug and play so you just plug stock coil pack wiring into the MSD connector then the MSD connector into the coil pack.

2248

It takes a little creative wiring, but you can get everything under the coil pack covers.
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2399

2400

The stock wiring has a rubber grommet where the wiring comes out of the rear of the covers. You will need to remove the grommet form both sides to accommodate the MSD wiring.
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Wiring out of the cover.
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Covers On
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The stock loom had a rubber connection where the wires split from a single loom to a double loom.
I removed the rubber because I needed a little more length on the passenger side. The wiring is run along the firewall.
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I mounted the Box on the passenger side with velcro. I added a little super glue to the velcro for a more permanent attachment. I grounded the unit using the bolt that connects to the strap from the hood blanket.
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Manual Tranmission

I used the 12V source option to control the unit. I tied it into the clutch switch (switch that kills the cruise control when the clutch is pedal is pushed in.

There is some wire loom on the black factory wires that I removed then reinstalled.

Tap the (blue and white) MSD wire into the (black) clutch switch wire that is closest to the firewall.

You do not use the solid blue wire on the MSD unit. I just tucked in under the dash after taping off the top. The blue wire is to activate the system via a ground so be sure to tape off the top so it doesn't ground itself on something.
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Automatic Tranmissions
If you want to use this in conjunction with a trans brake you connect the (blue and white wire) to the same 12V wire the transbrake is operated from so they work together as a single circuit.

Video of a 3500 RPM test. It holds the RPM's nice and steady, unlike the stock limiter which bounces all over the place.
YouTube- MSD 2-Step Launch Control (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yz4FcTWLCkg)

[AZSonicSnake]

when you putting that on?? i wanna see how that puppy is installed. its on my to do list before track season hits...

[BurnTire]

when you putting that on?? i wanna see how that puppy is installed. its on my to do list before track season hits...

Maybe this weekend.

I am going to take a ton of pics and do an install write up.

[AZSonicSnake]

nice! if you need any help, lemme know. i'd be down to drive out to help.

[BurnTire]

I took a look at the setup and it is plug and play.

1 ground, 1 connection to the clutch switch.

Some machining to the coil covers is going to be required and that should be it.

I am going to mount it on the fuse box in the engine bay.

[soap]

Sweet, I was reading the directions online and it does look like a very simple install.

http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/RPM_Timing_Controls/8734_instructions(1).pdf

--Joe

[fazm]

i have a 2step on my car, ill be using it on the 26th.

launchin in boost is fun lol

[BurnTire]

I have to get my lazy butt out and do the install.

[AZSonicSnake]

i have a 2step on my car, ill be using it on the 26th.

launchin in boost is fun lol

6k rpm FTW!!! :woot1:

[fazm]

if the tires would hold id go 6 lol

its hard enough to get em to hold at 4k rpm with 5psi


edit: by the way my car makes its peak power at 5200rpm lol.

[Ruckus46gt]

how come you went that way instead of just adding it to your sct tune? If you dont have sct then nevermind just figured your car was tuned with sct

[4Jenna]

how come you went that way instead of just adding it to your sct tune? If you dont have sct then nevermind just figured your car was tuned with sct


Pull spark instead of fuel.


I think atleast, he can only pull fuel with the SCT.

[BurnTire]

Pull spark instead of fuel.


I think atleast, he can only pull fuel with the SCT.

That is correct the PCM pulls fuel and hitting the stock limiter is somewhat violent. I use the SCT two step and don't like it.

[Ruckus46gt]

That is correct the PCM pulls fuel and hitting the stock limiter is somewhat violent. I use the SCT two step and don't like it.
gotcha its been a while didnt know which way sct pulled.

[soap]

It is my understanding that the SCT software pulls all fuel when using the neutral rev limiter, so instead of going into a lean condition there is actually no combustion at all.

So, stupid question, but if that is the case, how exactly does the motor continue to turn over??

--Joe

[BurnTire]

It is my understanding that the SCT software pulls all fuel when using the neutral rev limiter, so instead of going into a lean condition there is actually no combustion at all.

So, stupid question, but if that is the case, how exactly does the motor continue to turn over??

--Joe

It seems to pull the fuel in a cycle. The engine just bounces around at the limiter point.

[BurnTire]

Ok the first post has been edited with install information.
Let me know how the video works as it is locally hosted.

[AZSonicSnake]

very cool!! the video took some time to load, but it worked for me. looks like something i need to get done soon.

btw- with it hooked to the clutch switch, wouldn't it be engauged everytime you depress the clutch? i am not 100% understanding how thats gonna work... (yea, i am probably having a blonde moment...)

[BurnTire]

very cool!! the video took some time to load, but it worked for me. looks like something i need to get done soon.

btw- with it hooked to the clutch switch, wouldn't it be engauged everytime you depress the clutch? i am not 100% understanding how thats gonna work... (yea, i am probably having a blonde moment...)

Yes it will, but the RPMs must be 1000 below the set limit to activate.

So If I set the launch RPMs at 6000 the RPMs would have to drop below 5000 to reactivate the unit so it isn't really an issue.

It sure does hold things nice and smooth. I gave it a good wack one time and could smell raw fuel so there are no lean issue like the stock setup.

[AZSonicSnake]

i don't power shift though, so everytime i left off and clutch it to shift i am gonna be in trouble if i wired it that way, right?

[BurnTire]

i don't power shift though, so everytime i left off and clutch it to shift i am gonna be in trouble if i wired it that way, right?

The setup is only active when the clutch is to the floor. When the clutch is out it is deactivated. I don't understand what your asking?

[u1arunit]

Nice write up Jeff! I like the plug and play part. lol It sure does hold 'er steady. I need one of those! The vid works great for me.

[BurnTire]

Nice write up Jeff! I like the plug and play part. lol It sure does hold 'er steady. I need one of those! The vid works great for me.

I got some conflicting info on the activation hookup. I will update that soon. There are two clutch switches. One kills the Cruise control and the other is the Neutral switch. I have to figure out which way is best.

[IMSHAKN]

I got some conflicting info on the activation hookup. I will update that soon. There are two clutch switches. One kills the Cruise control and the other is the Neutral switch. I have to figure out which way is best.

Better change that before you become known as burnt wire. :laughing: Kidding. I'd think it would work fine either way with no issues looking at my wiring diagram book.

[BurnTire]

Better change that before you become known as burnt wire. :laughing: Kidding. I'd think it would work fine either way with no issues looking at my wiring diagram book.

LOL

I am hooked to the cruise control kill switch on the clutch I believe.

I want some info on neutral safety switch.

What does you diagram show on the neutral safety switch?
Which wire is hot prior to activating the switch?
Or are they both hot and the circuit is broken when activated?

Or I can get my lazy butt under the dash with the volt meter.

[IMSHAKN]

Let me look. I guess having the factory wiring schematics comes in handy. lol.

[BurnTire]

Let me look. I guess having the factory wiring schematics comes in handy. lol.

Thanks.

[BurnTire]

I found it. It is called the CPP clutch pedal position switch and it is not a 12 volt source.

There is a way to use it via a ground.
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0809_msd_launch_control_install_and_test/photo_13.html

This is the connector I would need to do it thru the CPP.
http://images.musclemustangfastfords.com/images/mmfp_0809_12_z+msd_launch_control+ground_source.jp g

[BUSTED]

Smoooooth, i like

[IMSHAKN]

Lol. Just as I'm uploading the image of the diagrams I get an email and sure enough there was a new reply from BurnTire. Lol. I take it you had it hooked up to the Light green coming from the cruise control?

Don't see why you need the connector.

[IMSHAKN]

Here is the wiring diagram for what you want.

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[BurnTire]

Lol. Just as I'm uploading the image of the diagrams I get an email and sure enough there was a new reply from BurnTire. Lol. I take it you had it hooked up to the Light green coming from the cruise control?

This is how I have it hooked now.
The clutch switch just to the left of the gas pedal.
I believe this switch turns off the cruise control if you press in the clutch correct?

My concern is this switch is activated close to the top of the pedal. So the car would initially start to move when the spark is being pulled.

The CPP switch would disengage much lower during the pedal travel.

Not sure if it matters.

2420

[BurnTire]

You can't tap the CPP switch as it is only a 5 volt source. That is why MM&FF used the additional connector in the CPP to complete the ground.


Clutch Pedal Position Switch
The clutch pedal position (CPP) switch (Figure 27) is an input to the PCM indicating the clutch pedal position and, in some manual transmission applications, both the clutch pedal engagement position and the gear shift position. The PCM provides a 5-volt reference (VREF) signal to the CPP switch and/or a park/neutral position (PNP) switch (on the CPP signal line). If the CPP switch (either or both CPP and PNP switches are closed) is closed, indicating the clutch pedal is engaged and the shift lever is in the NEUTRAL position, the output voltage (5 volts) from the PCM is grounded through the signal return line to the PCM, and there is 1 volt or less. One volt or less indicates there is a reduced load on the engine. If the CPP switch (or PNP switch on vehicle or both CPP and PNP switches open on the vehicle) is open, meaning the clutch pedal is disengaged (all systems) and the shift lever is not in NEUTRAL position (PNP switch systems), the input on the CPP signal to the PCM will be approximately 5 volts. Then, the 5-volt signal input at the PCM will indicate a load on the engine. The PCM uses the load information in mass air flow and fuel calculations.

[BurnTire]

The MSD unit has two wires to activate the system. I am using the 12V source wire.
The article in MM&FF is using the Ground Wire utilizing the CPP switch.

[IMSHAKN]

Correct on the wire. Personally I would think it would be better to have it hooked up as you do unless you only want it activated at the floor, in which case you'd want it on the red/blue wire as shown on the link you found from that website as that will be a complete circuit at full disengagement of the clutch. I don't know about you, but I don't launch with the pedal to the floor...maybe I'm interpreting it wrong but I think you've got it hooked up the better way.

[IMSHAKN]

Think of it this way, it works perfectly the way you've got it now and even if it's still pulling spark for the extra split second that it takes for the pedal to travel up breaking the circuit you are not going to see much of a difference...or am I missing something about this second wire they are using to hook it up? Half the time I think those guys in the magazine articles are on crack so I wouldn't assume their way is necessarily best...your way makes more sense to me.

[BurnTire]

I found a better diagram and added it to your post.

My clutch engages closer to the floor.
CPP is about an 1 1/2" off the floor.

[IMSHAKN]

Lol. much better version of my diagram...I don't like pressing my book too hard against the scanner as the bindings for uses on this book and the factory service manual are not the best. Then again they invented live chat for a reason. :yes:

[BurnTire]

Think of it this way, it works perfectly the way you've got it now and even if it's still pulling spark for the extra split second that it takes for the pedal to travel up breaking the circuit you are not going to see much of a difference...or am I missing something about this second wire they are using to hook it up? Half the time I think those guys in the magazine articles are on crack so I wouldn't assume their way is necessarily best...your way makes more sense to me.

I did a little testing tonight and the MSD works great. I am going to test it at the track the way I currently have it setup activated by the clutch cruise control kill switch.

I did a little more thinking about how it works. My concern was when I hit the slicks at 6000 RPM the two step would be activated until the clutch pedal was just about all the way out.

In my mind I could see a bad launch and 60 ft time due to hitting the tires with spark being pulled too long.

Then I thought a little more. When I launch my shift light comes on well after launch at 6000 RPMs. So the motor is losing RPM as the clutch engages and the tires hook which would deactivate the MSD being the RPMS are below the selected setting. So even though the electrical deactivation is at the top of the pedal the loss of some RPM as things hookup will also deactivate the MSD.

[IMSHAKN]

Then I thought a little more. When I launch my shift light comes on well after launch at 6000 RPMs. So the motor is losing RPM as the clutch engages and the tires hook which would deactivate the MSD being the RPMS are below the selected setting. So even though the electrical deactivation is at the top of the pedal the loss of some RPM as things hookup will also deactivate the MSD.

Personally I would think it would give you a more consistent 60 as you'd still have plenty of grip and you are not going to exceed your launch RPMs until probably well after you completely drop the clutch as you will see a bit of that drop in RPM. I say try it and we can watch what it's doing on camera...assuming your camera man knows how to use the thing.

[BurnTire]

Personally I would think it would give you a more consistent 60 as you'd still have plenty of grip and you are not going to exceed your launch RPMs until probably well after you completely drop the clutch as you will see a bit of that drop in RPM. I say try it and we can watch what it's doing on camera...assuming your camera man knows how to use the thing.

LOL
I am going to call you Mr. Shaky Hands.

I agree that the MSD should work ok as setup. I now have additional education on all the switch's under the dash:laughing:

Did I mention I hate working under the dash.

[IMSHAKN]

LOL
I am going to call you Mr. Shaky Hands.

I agree that the MSD should work ok as setup. I now have additional education on all the switch's under the dash:laughing:

Did I mention I hate working under the dash.

All you need is to look at my license plate and you'd understand. Lol.

Working under the dash is fine...if you've got the front seat out and are a midget.

[BurnTire]

Two step worked great at the track.

[AZSonicSnake]

black smoke FTW!! lol....

cool stuff man. cannot wait to get mine put on!!!

[BurnTire]

black smoke FTW!! lol....

cool stuff man. cannot wait to get mine put on!!!

Actually from an eye witness is was about 20 feet of red smoke.

Toroco getting cleaned out of my pipes. LOL

[AZSonicSnake]

ahh... on the first pass i saw the black smoke when you matted it on the first yellow...

[BurnTire]

ahh... on the first pass i saw the black smoke when you matted it on the first yellow...

LOL after the gas issues I was scared to watch the video, but it didn't see valves, electrodes, or piston parts coming out of the tail pipes.:biglaugh:

[AZSonicSnake]

this is true!! not gonna argue that one.

[soap]

I have a question specifically how you use the controller.

When I am at the track I do not sidestep the clutch from the floor when I launch. My clutch grabs near the top of it's travel so I might have 4" or so of travel to make when the car leaves. In other words, when I am at the light I essentially have the clutch pedal half way "out" bring up my rpm's, then dump the clutch and mat the gas.

After reading this whole thread it seems like you have to leave the clutch pedal fully engaged to the floor for the MSD controller to keep pulling timing.......is that true?? I really do not want to change the way I launch.

Thanks for the help.

--Joe

[BurnTire]

If you are hooked on the clutch cruise control kill switch like me the disengage point is at the very top of the pedal. So you can continue your current launch procedure.

[soap]

If you are hooked on the clutch cruise control kill switch like me the disengage point is at the very top of the pedal. So you can continue your current launch procedure.

Thank you sir, that is exaclty what I was looking for.

--Joe

[soap]

MSD 2-Step Launch Control
Ford Modular Motors 1999 and On
Part Number 8743

By the way.......this should be 8734.

--Joe

[BurnTire]

By the way.......this should be 8734.

--Joe

Thanks got it changed.

[soap]

What rpm are you leaving at and how many pounds of boost do you see leaving the line? What sort of psi do you run overall?

Was at the track this weekend and saw a guy having lots of problems with his Cobra. He just installed the 2-step and his problem was stemming from the fact that the 2-step was engaging again after he left the line. He said that if touched the clutch pedal at all once he left the line it would engage again. He said he does not lift his foot 100% off the clutch pedal and it was enaging after he left the line. So does that mean the car was bogging too much and dropping more than 1000 rpms below the set launch rpm?? I guess I am a little confused as to how the box knows when to activate the 2-step and when not to if the only thing controlling it is if the clutch pedal is engaged.

Thanks.

Thanks.

--Joe

[BurnTire]

Not sure what he is doing, but the two step is not active if the clutch is out. I don't drive with my foot on the clutch pedal as that is not a good habit if you want clutch life. He needs to adjust his driving habits or hook it to a switch that is not at the top of the pedal travel.

[soap]

What rpm are you leaving at and how many pounds of boost do you see leaving the line? What sort of psi do you run overall?

Thanks.

--Joe

Any info on this??

--Joe

[BurnTire]

Any info on this??

--Joe

I run 19PSI. I left at 5700. Not sure how much boost is registering before I leave. I am going to try to leave at 6000 next time and see if I can get into the 1.3x 60ft range.