question on new gears ( break in )

[96 myst]

I am gonna be picking up my cobra tomorrow from the mechanics, they installed new frpp 4.10's along with all new bearing etc. What is the proper way to break the new gears in?

Thanks in advance

[Ruckus46gt]

never broke in the 3 sets of gears i had and never had an issue. Well actually i break then in with a nice launch on slicks. My last rear i finished the night before a track rental then made 10 passes launching from 6,300+ rpms. That was with 4.30 gears

[Gene]

no break in, just drive it

[96 myst]

Sweet!!!!! Sounds like fun tomorrow evening then.
Thanks Guys

[BurnTire]

DTS recommended using 85-140 non synthetic gear oil for break in.
Drive the car 30 miles and then let the rear completely cool down. Do this cycle 3 times. Then after 500 miles change the break in oil to lube of your desire. They recommend Amsoil 75-90 full synthetic.

This is the procedure for a car that will see some street duty.

This comes from company that has built thousands of custom rear ends.

[TorchedMach1]

Last time I had the 4.10's swapped in I left straight from PSR to Speedworld for some nice redline launches on slicks and the bottle. :woot1:

[Ruckus46gt]

DTS recommended using 85-140 non synthetic gear oil for break in.
Drive the car 30 miles and then let the rear completely cool down. Do this cycle 3 times. Then after 500 miles change the break in oil to lube of your desire. They recommend Amsoil 75-90 full synthetic.

This is the procedure for a car that will see some street duty.

This comes from company that has built thousands of custom rear ends.
nobody actually follows that there is no reason to. My car was street driven even with 4.30s had no issues. 4.30s were in my daily driver for over 2 years now, before that had 4.10s for 2 years with no issues either on my old gt. Mustang magic who did my car did at least 2 or 3 gear swaps a day at least and they said no break in required. 45 minutes in and and on a gear swap. 4.30 gear swap i did with a friend that took about 2 and a half hours hardest point was setting the backlash

[BurnTire]

nobody actually follows that there is no reason to. My car was street driven even with 4.30s had no issues. 4.30s were in my daily driver for over 2 years now, before that had 4.10s for 2 years with no issues either on my old gt. Mustang magic who did my car did at least 2 or 3 gear swaps a day at least and they said no break in required. 45 minutes in and and on a gear swap. 4.30 gear swap i did with a friend that took about 2 and a half hours hardest point was setting the backlash

Call them up and let them know they don't know what they are talking about.
http://www.dtscustom.com/

[Ruckus46gt]

Call them up and let them know they don't know what they are talking about.
http://www.dtscustom.com/
nobody picked up. Guess they are closed right now. I'll try tomorrow to let them know that a breakin isnt required. After a couple years or trackuse and daily driving no metal shavings etc

[BurnTire]

nobody picked up. Guess they are closed right now. I'll try tomorrow to let them know that a breakin isnt required

Be sure to ask for Adam in fabrication. You can give him some pointers on building rear ends.

[Ruckus46gt]

Be sure to ask for Adam in fabrication. You can give him some pointers on building rear ends.
not talking about building a rear talking about that there is no need to breakin a rear end. I dont know anyone who actually has. Nobody ever had a problem either.

[BurnTire]

not talking about building a rear talking about that there is no need to breakin a rear end. I dont know anyone who actually has. Nobody ever had a problem either.


You break in the gears and I know many people that follow the break in procedure. Call DTS and ask them why it is best to do on a street driven car and report your findings back in this thread.

DTS are not the only people that recommend a heat cycle break in period. I have heard it for the past 20 years I have been playing with mustangs.

Do what you like with your car, but I followed the instructions from the pros.

[BurnTire]

From Richmond Gear
I guess the manufactures don't know what they are talking about.

http://www.richmondgear.com/01instructions.html

BREAK IN
A new ring and pinion installation, especially a high numeric ratio with new bearings, can cause an excessive heat buildup in the rear end and cause softening of the gear teeth and bearings if a break in is not performed.

Street vehicles should be driven at normal street driving speed for approximately 10 miles, then stop and let cool for 30 minutes. Do this 2 to 3 times. Towing vehicles need approximately 200-300 miles of normal street driving before being used for towing.
On circle track race cars make approximately 6 to 8 laps at slow speed, then let cool for 30 minutes. Make 6 to 8 more laps at slow speed, then 2 to 3 laps at full speed, the let cool again for 30 minutes.
Drag cars need only an initial run-in since they are driven short distances and heat is not normally a problem with proper lube and backlash allowance.
NOTE: If after the above break in is performed, overheating of the rear end is suspected, repeat the final portion of the break in procedures.

[Ruckus46gt]

From Richmond Gear
I guess the manufactures don't know what they are talking about.

http://www.richmondgear.com/01instructions.html

BREAK IN
A new ring and pinion installation, especially a high numeric ratio with new bearings, can cause an excessive heat buildup in the rear end and cause softening of the gear teeth and bearings if a break in is not performed.

Street vehicles should be driven at normal street driving speed for approximately 10 miles, then stop and let cool for 30 minutes. Do this 2 to 3 times. Towing vehicles need approximately 200-300 miles of normal street driving before being used for towing.
On circle track race cars make approximately 6 to 8 laps at slow speed, then let cool for 30 minutes. Make 6 to 8 more laps at slow speed, then 2 to 3 laps at full speed, the let cool again for 30 minutes.
Drag cars need only an initial run-in since they are driven short distances and heat is not normally a problem with proper lube and backlash allowance.
NOTE: If after the above break in is performed, overheating of the rear end is suspected, repeat the final portion of the break in procedures.
lol what if the shop is further then 10 miles away how do i get home? Track was 2 and a half hours away if i went to the close one the other was 4 hours and thats the one we would go to more often since we could rent it. That post also says nothing about changing the fluid like your first post. See even the experts dont agree

[BurnTire]

They all agree that there should be a few heat and cool down cycles.

[Ruckus46gt]

not for nothing a drag car trailed to the track with new gears doing a burnout, a full pass, and going back to the pits. That car is going to see the same temps at 20 minutes plus of driving at least. Companies have to cover there ass and the reason they say that is cause of the extra coating put on the rings since the gears sit for a long time before getting installed. It is recommended by a lot of people not to use synthetic gear oil right away

[BurnTire]

Read above. Drag car does not require the break in. This is for a street car.
There comes a time when one should stick his foot in his mouth. You have reached it.

[Ruckus46gt]

Read above. Drag car does not require the break in. This is for a street car.
There comes a time when one should stick his foot in his mouth. You have reached it.
yea they "do not require a break in", but will see the same rear end temps as a street driven car but will put more of a beating on the rear. So both rears will see the same temps, one will put way more of a beating on the ring but yet that one doesnt require a break in. Makes a lot of sense. Rear doesnt need a break in drive it normal go to the track you wont have any issues with it

[96 myst]

Well, seems both ways have worked for many people. I have decided that taking a few extra minutes is not gonna hurt me any and will heat them up and let them cool a few times. Better safe than sorry.

Thanks guys

[6Jeff6]

Well, seems both ways have worked for many people. I have decided that taking a few extra minutes is not gonna hurt me any and will heat them up and let them cool a few times. Better safe than sorry.

Thanks guys


Make sure you use the right oil. Some will make grinding sounds.

Good decision.:twothumbsup:

[OH3MGSVT]

:sissyfight:this is what jeff and ruckus are doing

[BurnTire]

:sissyfight:this is what jeff and ruckus are doing

Nope just trying to provide information from pro rear builders and gear manufacturers.

[BurnTire]

yea they "do not require a break in", but will see the same rear end temps as a street driven car but will put more of a beating on the rear. So both rears will see the same temps, one will put way more of a beating on the ring but yet that one doesnt require a break in. Makes a lot of sense. Rear doesnt need a break in drive it normal go to the track you wont have any issues with it

A dedicated drag car is not worried about putting 50,000 miles on the ring and pinion. Second a trailer queen is not going to see the same rear temps as a street car. Drag cars need only an initial run-in since they are driven short distances and heat is not normally a problem with proper lube and backlash allowance.

Driving the car normally to the track is a break in cycle. I am glad to see you see the light.

You do not use synthetics on a new ring and pinion because of the break in requirments.

[fourvalvegt]

if you cant use a synthetic on break in what does ford do in the 05 and newer mustangs that say synthetic only dirrectly on the rear end housing

i break in gears the same way i break in clutches, at the track, and then i just wait 300 miles for 2nd2nunn to break the clutch, but seriously i break them in at the track

[BurnTire]

i just wait 300 miles for 2nd2nunn to break the clutch

:biglaugh:

[Ruckus46gt]

A dedicated drag car is not worried about putting 50,000 miles on the ring and pinion. Second a trailer queen is not going to see the same rear temps as a street car. Drag cars need only an initial run-in since they are driven short distances and heat is not normally a problem with proper lube and backlash allowance.

Driving the car normally to the track is a break in cycle. I am glad to see you see the light.

You do not use synthetics on a new ring and pinion because of the break in requirments.
wow someone can read a books. Hate to tell you the rear end temp of a pass will be much higher then a car driving 10 miles which according to you would be harmfull. Tall gears and high mph is a lot of friction. Aftermarket gears come coated with 'Phosphate', 'Cosmolene' (sp?) or other coating to prevent rusting/pitting during transit or storage. The reason you shouldnt use Synthetic oil is that it clings to the gearteeth and doesn't shear like conventional oil thus taking much longer to create the pattern. also if i live in az or north dakota my 10 miles with an hour cool down wouldnt there be a difference in rear temps? So the info you are posting is vague in general. What they are telling you is a cover my ass response, but its not necessary. I will put money you will not have any issues getting on it as you leave the shop, besides maybe an unsafe start ticket if a cop is nearby. Remember if you live 30 miles away from the shop its going to take you about 3 and a half hours to get home lol
i'm done you've read it all

[BurnTire]

wow someone can read a books. Hate to tell you the rear end temp of a pass will be much higher then a car driving 10 miles which according to you would be harmfull. Tall gears and high mph is a lot of friction. Aftermarket gears come coated with 'Phosphate', 'Cosmolene' (sp?) or other coating to prevent rusting/pitting during transit or storage. The reason you shouldnt use Synthetic oil is that it clings to the gearteeth and doesn't shear like conventional oil thus taking much longer to create the pattern.
i'm done you've read it all


Go out and work on your 13 second car. You made of fool of yourself on the wheel backspacing and your doing it again.

Yes create a pattern that is a break in Mr. 13 Second.

[BurnTire]

The entire purpose of the break is to ensure longevity of the ring and pinion.

I have never seen anyone make such an issue over something that only takes a few drives to accomplish.

You act like it costs the owner a $1,000 to accomplish a break in.

[AZSonicSnake]

wow...someone hit jeffs tender spot.... :laughing: :twothumbsup: :sticktonge:

[BurnTire]

wow...someone hit jeffs tender spot.... :laughing: :twothumbsup: :sticktonge:


Nope. Just having fun on the internet:bounce:

[4Jenna]

I have known guys to not break-in things properly from gears to clutches etc..

I always went by manufactuer specs on all my stuff...especially on gears and clutches.

There is a right way and a wrong way to do things....not saying the "wrong way" means the rear will explode, heck it may last (I wouldnt know) but I do know these companies recc break-in's for the reasons Jeff has already pointed out.

Some of us don't want the hassle of short-cuts because people with my luck should understand why i try and take every precaution to ensure my car is done right. LOL

[Ruckus46gt]

Go out and work on your 13 second car. You made of fool of yourself on the wheel backspacing and your doing it again.

Yes create a pattern that is a break in Mr. 13 Second.
wow we are mr tuff guy. Yea i own a 12 sec car and only had a 12 sec 2v. Sorry never felt the need to become a cobra owner. Did i think about it yea but people like you are the reason i havent. All cobra owners think there shit doesnt stink.
Hey torch did you swap out rear ends when you put those 28's on? I proved 28's would fit on a 99 up rear know many cars doing it. You just need to stop being a nut hugger. So while you are at it can you read a book and let me know how the cooling down process gives a different wear pattern then if you were to drive the car straight through

[4Jenna]

:listen:

This one is getting into a dual...play nice gents

<---------gets popcorn out and paintenly awaits replies:yes:

[AZSonicSnake]

<--- takes a seat next to 4jenna.... :icon_cool:

[4Jenna]

Ruckus


This isn't car related but would you care to explain the physics of the Flux Compasitor to me? I have emailed Michael J. Fox and the "Doc" but have been unsucessful....maybe try Steven Spielberg?

It's something that has always boggled my mind, along with people skimping on break-in procedures...hahahaha:laughing:

http://pimpsofgore.com/untitled/back.jpg

[Ruckus46gt]

Ruckus


This isn't car related but would you care to explain the physics of the Flux Compasitor to me? I have emailed Michael J. Fox and the "Doc" but have been unsucessful....maybe try Steven Spielberg?

It's something that has always boggled my mind, along with people skimping on break-in procedures...hahahaha:laughing:
i had to look this one up since i have no first hand expierence. My info might not be 100 percent my want to see if burntire have a book or first hand expierence advice from christopher loyd (dr. emmett brown)
In conjunction with a magnetic field and the load, the flux capacitor uses the hierarchical structure of the cosmos as a timer! The trilamination of the tiny spheres with selected metals and their subjection to a magnetic field and current (sustained by the load) destabilizes the orderliness of the proton, the heavier atom and the "tissue" of individual layers of metal. The matter then seeks to re-establish itself in the "fractal set."

The trilamination inserts a "curve" where there ought to be none, between the atomic structure and the next higher context of presence which is normally occupied by living things, beneath the solar niche and within the biospheric niche in a five to eleven dimensional collapsible schema of the universe accounting for all the phenomenon observed by scientists and others.
The nature of the timing is that which accounts for "pulsing", a "throbbing", in some other applications usually associated with creation of light produced in objects which allow angular also linear accelerations, stifled in the beebees. It is not known if there is a pulse associated with this particular flux capacitor.
The beebees occupy the next niche up from the atomic to accommodate the stresses in the atoms which is the twisting, softening or liquifaction of the nuclei of the heavy elements in the trilaminar balls, also the counterrotating trilaminar wheels of an application producing motion. As long as the device is "on", it occupies hyperspace and is an array of functions or an "object", a "thing", in itself. That liquefaction (phase shift) of the nuclei disqualifies the atoms from their niche in the curvature of space: the Primary universe, this secondary universe containing the familiar galaxies, suns, and lesser bodies, (each a number of subsidiary radians within this secondary universe, itself a second radian out of vacuum; the biosphere, which is a third universe where we see the various phases of matter sharing their respective surfaces as well as changing places (solid, liquie, chemical, gaseous phases, and the "pinioning" atomic scale on the micro side of the human scale, where all flux capacitors are found, in the fourth level of universes, the fourth (pi-eth, we call it) space. The "Fourth Fractal

[AZSonicSnake]

wow! good read!!! :twothumbsup:

[AZSonicSnake]

All cobra owners think there shit doesnt stink.


btw- its been killing me to not reply to this line of bs. i personally know there are many cars out there that are faster than my car. i personally respect all lines of cars and definetly respect anyone that puts the love and dedication into thier car. no matter what it is. personally i hang around mazda guys, and never talk crap. i mean sure my car runs 11's but lets face it, there are many more that run 10's, 9's etc. just want to clear the air and let you know that does not apply to the whole crowd your pointing it at. :icon_cool:

[Ruckus46gt]

btw- its been killing me to not reply to this line of bs. i personally know there are many cars out there that are faster than my car. i personally respect all lines of cars and definetly respect anyone that puts the love and dedication into thier car. no matter what it is. personally i hang around mazda guys, and never talk crap. i mean sure my car runs 11's but lets face it, there are many more that run 10's, 9's etc. just want to clear the air and let you know that does not apply to the whole crowd your pointing it at. :icon_cool:
i admitt wasnt the best way to word it, but a lot of owners are that way. A lot are fine but as always a few bad eggs spoil everything. I personally like to do less with more always have been that way.

[AZSonicSnake]

its cool man. i can totally respect that. just in the world of mustangs i wanted something other than a gt or a base model. i wanted something that was a little different than "just" a mustang. it was between a cobra and a mach 1. and with what i paid for my cobra, damn, i could not argue one bit. but i totally hear ya. and i know it keeps people from talking to me out at the track sometimes. but not all cobra guys are the same. i for one love to hang and talk with anyone that digs cars, be it stupid fast, or just plain good lookin, or whatever. you get the point.

[4Jenna]

Ruckus I owe you...thanks a ton!

I just traveled back to dec 5, 1955 to actually see in person when Doc slipped and hit his head on the tiolet and got the idea for the Flux comp.

I also travled back to yesterday and I wanted it to be known that Ruckus not only drives a Chevy but also sports one clean MULLET, this sucker must be groomed daily with pantean as it almost..not quite as flashy as Jeff's due.

I even got to see Ruckus with a hair net over this fine example of a Mullet while he was serving up burgers at In & Out Burger. Sponge Bob aint got nuthin on this fry cooks skillz.

LMAO...this is fun:yes:

[fazm]

this thread cracks me up.

if you dont want to break your gears in, fine.
if you do want to break them in, fine.

that way if you dont, u can only blame yourself. how lazy do you have to be to not spend less than half hour to make sure something lasts in your car.

[4Jenna]

Ruckus why you gankin' my pic for your sig?

:biglaugh:

[BurnTire]

Ruckus I like your new signature.

Lets get the facts straight.

1. I have done all the work on my car. All of it including the tuning. The only time it has been to a shop was to weld the sub frame connectors when it was 2 days old. I don't nut swing with anyone. I do all my own work to the best of my abilities. I ran 11.84 on a 2.93, CAI, and Catback the first time to the track with stock IRS.

I ran 10.88 1.59 60ft time on the stock IRS, whipple at 19 PSI and the car was 100 lbs over stock weight with all the additional safety equipment.

Stock manifolds and cats.

2. No one ever said 28's with a 6.5 back space will not fit. The simple fact is if the suspension squats to the fender the tire will contact it. Many people run this setup, but I know some that have had rubbing issues and had to roll their fenders. This is totally dependant on your suspension setup and various other things.

3. This site is for the exchange of quality information for mustang enthusiasts. I always do things things the conservative way just like Chris. If the manufacture says to do something I follow their instructions. If a bolt is to be torqued to 80ft lbs thats what I set it at.

4. Yes I do read and research many things related to cars. Really I have been in the books my entire adult life. It comes with flying an airliner. Education is a good thing regardless of what the subject is.

5. Your new signature Rocks!

[BurnTire]

this thread cracks me up.

if you dont want to break your gears in, fine.
if you do want to break them in, fine.

that way if you dont, u can only blame yourself. how lazy do you have to be to not spend less than half hour to make sure something lasts in your car.


LOL What would you know?
It's not like you are a Mechanic or anything.:Bucktooth:

[BurnTire]

Ruckus why you gankin' my pic for your sig?

:biglaugh:

Man he has style. That is a kick ass sig:pepper:

[fazm]

LOL What would you know?
It's not like you are a Mechanic or anything.:Bucktooth:

:biglaugh:

dont need to be a mechanic to use common sense though

[BurnTire]

:biglaugh:

dont need to be a machanic to use common sense though

Agree with that one:pinkthumb:

[AZSonicSnake]

gotta call bs jeff, i remember seein someone else bolting tires on your car at speedworld!!! hahaha... :woot1:

[BurnTire]

gotta call bs jeff, i remember seein someone else bolting tires on your car at speedworld!!! hahaha... :woot1:

Who was that. I don't remember that one.

I also recall someone being scared to bolt them on to their Blue Cobra:biglaugh: in search of an 11!

There will be someone else touching my car in the morning.