View Full Version : What are the major differences...
...between Paxton/Vortech and Whipple/Kenne Bell type superchargers in regards to reliability, power, cost, maintenance, etc?
BurnTire
11-22-07, 05:52 PM
I would say they all hold up well.
I would recommend a Whipple/Kenne Bell. A twin screw blower will give you instant boost with power spread across the RMP range.
A centrifugal blower like the Paxton will build boost as the RPMS increases so you will not have the low end power like the twin screw.
hmmm, do I detect bias? JK. Would you have info on install time and cost?
What car, and what goals?
All have perks and downfalls.
Except a turbo:yes:
BurnTire
11-22-07, 07:54 PM
Not really. I have both types of blowers and find the twin screw to be a nicer setup.
Not sure on the pricing. Check with our sponsors.
Also I highly recommend doing an inter-cooled setup for engine life.
If your handly you can install either kit in a day, but you will need to have the car tuned when you are done.
The car: a 2008 GT auto w/ full exhaust, CAI, Pred tune, FRPP lowering springs all on 20x9 AR Razors & Nittos.
The goals: mid - high 12's, reliability, and endurance (I plan to keep it for good).
BTW, what reputable vendors are there in the area (Tucson/Phoenix) ?
Do the Whipple on yours seems to be an easy install on those cars as many run that setup and the power will be there, with longevity.
Each blower will perform diff, in diff rpm zones. Like Jeff said the roots will be there almost instantly, where a centrfi comes on hard in the 3k range. The centrfi usually does better at the track in the pushrod world (all I know) Prob. not a good comparision in the modular world as 90% run roots and I don't own a mod. car so take it for what it's worth.
Hope that helps some.
LSlayer
11-25-07, 05:53 AM
The car: a 2008 GT auto w/ full exhaust, CAI, Pred tune, FRPP lowering springs all on 20x9 AR Razors & Nittos.
The goals: mid - high 12's, reliability, and endurance (I plan to keep it for good).
BTW, what reputable vendors are there in the area (Tucson/Phoenix) ?
12s are nothing with a blower. You could easily do mid 12 with bad driving on 20's. If 12 mid to high 12s are your goal just get some stock 17s, slap some DRs on, get 4.10s or 3.73s since youve got an auto and your good. Provided you get a good launch. As for the blowers, most of your nicer FI kits cost 4900-6200 for complete kits with polished whipple usally ringing in at the top end. Not sure who is the longest lasting but centrifugal blower head units aren't too hard to remove. My buddy and I pulled his head unit in 10-15 mins with no experience. Power wise the Centifugals seem to make more hp up top but less torque down low. T/S blowers make more torque across the board.
Any of the popular FI kits for the 3V should put an Auto in the 11s(maybe mid 11s) with good driving and good suspension. A good Torque convetor in your case should help as well.
11sec05
12-22-07, 03:21 PM
with an auto trans go with a whipple, kennybell is ok too.
hpmotzd
01-06-08, 02:03 PM
I know this is off topic, but 4jenna, I hope you dont mind but i posted a link to your foundation website on another forum in response to a kid who wondered why some of us dont drive fast all the time. thanks
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