First Auto '03 Cobra passes...

[BADASS03SVT]

Eaton powered!!!

anyways, got to the track, went to tech. "you have a shield on that auto?" ......yeap.....(still need to find one) teched in and immmediatly went to the lanes. racing started about 915 and my first pass was at 9:54am. the slip on the left is the first pass...no idea what I am doing...tires at 12.5psi...I hammered the gas on the 3rd yellow and let the t-brake off....shifted around 6200-6300, and almost forgot about lockup and I hit that at about the 1000' mark in 3rd. the slip on the right is the same scenerio...I didnt change anything except i hit the lockup IMMEDIATELY after i shifted into 3rd. I am car 213

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/BBBjake/07-21-07NEDSlips.jpg

[BADASS03SVT]

the track then took lunch break and I chenged a few things. I dropped the tires to 12psi as I could tell the car was spinning a bit out of the hole. I talked to a couple people with auto's and was told to not floor the car, but to hold the rpm a little lower than the stall speed. my converter is a 4k stall so we decided to hold it right around 3500rpm (thanks Tim and Eric), then at the same time, release the t-brake and hammer it to "flash" the converter. The last change I made was to lock up the converter at the top of 2nd gear. reason being is when i would hit 3rd and lock it up, the rpms went WAY down. not exatcly sure where but it was in the low 4k's. I have read that shifting the car while locked is a bit more stressful on the tranny but hey...its a race tranny that I'm going to ship back every couple years anyways right?? so here is the low down...
hold the car at 3500.....release the t-brake and floor it...hit lockup at the top of 2nd....
the slip on the left is this run. form the 60's and from being in the car. I think it was hitting harder and spinning the tires even more...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/BBBjake/07-21-07NEDSlips2.jpg

[BADASS03SVT]

now the slip on the right....haha....i decided after the 10.96 pass it was time to try the n2o hit. loaded up the tune, warmed the bottle and set it all up. as I'm sure you can see...the n2o didnt com eout (for some reason) but i went 10.99 and 125 on my n2o tune with no juice!!!!
so that was the first day out with the auto Eaton car...I'm happy with the outcome as I know there is more in it. I dont see why this car cant go high 1.4x 60's and run 10.7x. I was told a few of the CMDR guys racing said with the humidity that day, they were around 2 tenths off their good air times.....so we will see what happens.
any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!! Please check out this vid that Horsepoweraddict sent me of the 10.96 pass. watch the launch...its DEFF not right....

HorsePwrAddict - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v627/HorsePwrAddict/?action=view&current=1492e470.flv)

[BurnTire]

Those are some nice times.

[5.0Stanger]

Nice times. I watched the vid a few times. Did you notice how the rear of the car got up on the tires, then dropped? Are you using a solid rear axle? If so, what are you doing to help weight transfer to the rearend? Do you have drag springs and adjustable shocks? Sorry, I'm not familiar with your car, but I usually soften up the rear shocks on the L that I race. That usually gets a little weight transfer. That's because of the stock rear springs. But, it'd be different with drag springs.

[BADASS03SVT]

Nice times. I watched the vid a few times. Did you notice how the rear of the car got up on the tires, then dropped? Are you using a solid rear axle? If so, what are you doing to help weight transfer to the rearend? Do you have drag springs and adjustable shocks? Sorry, I'm not familiar with your car, but I usually soften up the rear shocks on the L that I race. That usually gets a little weight transfer. That's because of the stock rear springs. But, it'd be different with drag springs.

yes I did. I havent touched the suspension since the car was at the track last which resulted in my 10.98 @ 124.98 with a 1.54. the auto actually launches differently even on the trans brake. I do have a solid rear. suspension consists of Pro3i control arms, FMS B springs and an air bag in each spring, and Tokico 5 way shocks...nothing crazy. Im gonna mess with a littl emore but I think I need to change it up a bit..(coil overs and an anti-roll bar) any suggestions for the current setup?

[5.0Stanger]

yes I did. I havent touched the suspension since the car was at the track last which resulted in my 10.98 @ 124.98 with a 1.54. the auto actually launches differently even on the trans brake. I do have a solid rear. suspension consists of Pro3i control arms, FMS B springs and an air bag in each spring, and Tokico 5 way shocks...nothing crazy. Im gonna mess with a littl emore but I think I need to change it up a bit..(coil overs and an anti-roll bar) any suggestions for the current setup?

From what I know about transbrakes, I've heard they allow an auto-equipped car to launch hard like a manual-equipped car.

First off, is the pinion angle set to the correct angle with the aftermarket control arms or are they non-adjustable? IMHO, I think the B springs have a higher spring rate than should be in there. So, I think they're fighting with the airbags. And, I've read that only on bag in the right rear spring is necessary to control the body roll. Better body roll control can be found in a rear anti-roll bar.

What do you have those Tokico 5-ways set at for the 'strip? For the Lightning that I race, I start with nearly full soft on the shocks. I do that just to check to see if the truck breaks loose on the line. If so, I firm the shocks up one click. That usually does it. The truck doesn't 60-foot more than 1.7, but I figure that this info can only help.

Plus, what rear tire do you use and what's air pressure do you start with? If there's not a wide enough contact patch, it may spin on the line.

I know that I've just dumped a ton of info on you. So, just start with the cheapest adjustment. That should get you somewhere. Remember, try one thing at a time, instead of all at once. That way, if one thing doesn't work, you'll know straight away.

Let me know how it works out.

[BADASS03SVT]

From what I know about transbrakes, I've heard they allow an auto-equipped car to launch hard like a manual-equipped car.

First off, is the pinion angle set to the correct angle with the aftermarket control arms or are they non-adjustable? IMHO, I think the B springs have a higher spring rate than should be in there. So, I think they're fighting with the airbags. And, I've read that only on bag in the right rear spring is necessary to control the body roll. Better body roll control can be found in a rear anti-roll bar.

What do you have those Tokico 5-ways set at for the 'strip? For the Lightning that I race, I start with nearly full soft on the shocks. I do that just to check to see if the truck breaks loose on the line. If so, I firm the shocks up one click. That usually does it. The truck doesn't 60-foot more than 1.7, but I figure that this info can only help.

Plus, what rear tire do you use and what's air pressure do you start with? If there's not a wide enough contact patch, it may spin on the line.

I know that I've just dumped a ton of info on you. So, just start with the cheapest adjustment. That should get you somewhere. Remember, try one thing at a time, instead of all at once. That way, if one thing doesn't work, you'll know straight away.

Let me know how it works out.

only reason I did the B springs is form research, alot had them and they sit great and work good at the track. At the time i did them, I wasnt into it as much as I am now. rear tires are M/T ET Drags, 28x10.5x15 and I run around 12psi. The rear shocks.....I need to mess with those or get under car adjustables. They are hard to adjust as I like doing the "show" thing too so my truck interior is all together and I just cut a small hole to access the adjuster which is on top. turning them though, i cant tell much of a difference by bouncing the car. The fronts are MUCH better

[5.0Stanger]

only reason I did the B springs is form research, alot had them and they sit great and work good at the track. At the time i did them, I wasnt into it as much as I am now. rear tires are M/T ET Drags, 28x10.5x15 and I run around 12psi. The rear shocks.....I need to mess with those or get under car adjustables. They are hard to adjust as I like doing the "show" thing too so my truck interior is all together and I just cut a small hole to access the adjuster which is on top. turning them though, i cant tell much of a difference by bouncing the car. The fronts are MUCH better

Ok, thanks for the info.

The springs are more for street, than strip. The tires you have should do the job. Have you tried different rear tire pressures? If not, try going up or down one pound and make a pass. You probably don't want to go more than three-to-four pounds down, for safety's sake. The time slip should show any change. What you could do is make 1/8-mile runs, shutting down just past the 660-foot mark. Any change you make to the suspension (i.e. tire pressure, airbag pressure, or shock damping) will show in the first 330 feet. Also, shutting down early will be safer than if you had a problem, while testing, at 1000 feet out. What pressure do you run in the airbags? It could be that you're running so much pressure that it fights the shock valving. That said, what are the rear shocks set at? I'm guessing in the middle. You could try adjusting things in this order: shock valving, airbag pressure, and then tire pressure. Only adjust one thing at a time. Too many changes can make it hard to figure out what you did to make it work or make it worse.

Let me know what you find out. I'm interested in what's not letting the weight transfer to the rear.

[BADASS03SVT]

Ok, thanks for the info.

The springs are more for street, than strip. The tires you have should do the job. Have you tried different rear tire pressures? If not, try going up or down one pound and make a pass. You probably don't want to go more than three-to-four pounds down, for safety's sake. The time slip should show any change. What you could do is make 1/8-mile runs, shutting down just past the 660-foot mark. Any change you make to the suspension (i.e. tire pressure, airbag pressure, or shock damping) will show in the first 330 feet. Also, shutting down early will be safer than if you had a problem, while testing, at 1000 feet out. What pressure do you run in the airbags? It could be that you're running so much pressure that it fights the shock valving. That said, what are the rear shocks set at? I'm guessing in the middle. You could try adjusting things in this order: shock valving, airbag pressure, and then tire pressure. Only adjust one thing at a time. Too many changes can make it hard to figure out what you did to make it work or make it worse.

Let me know what you find out. I'm interested in what's not letting the weight transfer to the rear.

thanks man...Fun Ford weekend this weekend so no real time to test things. I only have 2 test passes then its eliminations! Just going to run it and leave it as is. next week I will mess with it

[5.0Stanger]

thanks man...Fun Ford weekend this weekend so no real time to test things. I only have 2 test passes then its eliminations! Just going to run it and leave it as is. next week I will mess with it

Alright then. I didn't know you were going to run FFW, this weekend. Good luck with it. I figure that if your car is consistent, the way it is, then you should do alright.

[BADASS03SVT]

Alright then. I didn't know you were going to run FFW, this weekend. Good luck with it. I figure that if your car is consistent, the way it is, then you should do alright.

yea...tried a street night a couple weeks ago and there was ZERO traction. owell..will see what happens tomorrow. first FFW even and 2nd event overall for me.

[5.0Stanger]

yea...tried a street night a couple weeks ago and there was ZERO traction. owell..will see what happens tomorrow. first FFW even and 2nd event overall for me.

2nd event you've ever run, or for that car? What class are you running, Mod Comp? FFW usually makes sure that the track hooks well. When they used to come to Phoenix, the track was better than the local Friday night events.

[BADASS03SVT]

2nd event you've ever run, or for that car? What class are you running, Mod Comp? FFW usually makes sure that the track hooks well. When they used to come to Phoenix, the track was better than the local Friday night events.

Ill keep it short and simple....made it to the 1/4 finals in mod comp and lost by .008 BUUUUUUUUUT I learned how to launch the car i think

best of the 2 days was a 10.84 @ 121 on a 1.46!!!!! made 7 passes with 3 of them actually trying to launch good and i had that one, a 1.47 and a 1.48 (not in that order) other 4 were 1.55, 1.51, 1.50, and 1.52 launching a lil lower to hold back my ET.

[5.0Stanger]

Ill keep it short and simple....made it to the 1/4 finals in mod comp and lost by .008 BUUUUUUUUUT I learned how to launch the car i think

best of the 2 days was a 10.84 @ 121 on a 1.46!!!!! made 7 passes with 3 of them actually trying to launch good and i had that one, a 1.47 and a 1.48 (not in that order) other 4 were 1.55, 1.51, 1.50, and 1.52 launching a lil lower to hold back my ET.

Sounds like you did really well. So, you were launching lower than 3500 to hold back some ET? Your 60ft got closer to that of when you had the 6spd in the car.

Listen, I talked to a friend that runs a transbrake and a four-link. I your problem to him. I told him what rear springs you're using and asked what he knew about it. I found out that your rear springs are rated at 300lbs, and you should be using something near 150lbs. A set of 50/50s in the rear would be good. You could, also, put some 70/30 struts in the front to keep the front end rise up a little longer than in your posted video. You could put 90/10s in the front, but street handling is probably going to be useless.

Let me know what you think.

[BADASS03SVT]

Sounds like you did really well. So, you were launching lower than 3500 to hold back some ET? Your 60ft got closer to that of when you had the 6spd in the car.

Listen, I talked to a friend that runs a transbrake and a four-link. I your problem to him. I told him what rear springs you're using and asked what he knew about it. I found out that your rear springs are rated at 300lbs, and you should be using something near 150lbs. A set of 50/50s in the rear would be good. You could, also, put some 70/30 struts in the front to keep the front end rise up a little longer than in your posted video. You could put 90/10s in the front, but street handling is probably going to be useless.

Let me know what you think.

I have adjustables up front already where i can slow it down. i thought the b springs were 250lbs out back?? I want to do coil overs there anyways this winter so that will change

[5.0Stanger]

I have adjustables up front already where i can slow it down. i thought the b springs were 250lbs out back?? I want to do coil overs there anyways this winter so that will change

I was checking on those B springs, in the '07 catalog. It showed something like 200/300lbs. Either way, 250lbs seems to be too much, still. Are your adjustable fronts the same Tokico 5-ways? If so, they aren't slowing the front end from dropping, after the weight transfer on the launch. The idea is to have the front end rise (not always, hang the front wheels) and keep the weight transfer as long as possible. I've seen 8-second cars that put a reverse rake on the car from the launch to the finish line. It looks funny, but you can't deny the weight transfer. And, coil-over rear shocks will open the door to many different spring rate choices.