Downpipe...

[mntony]

Hi guys,
I just wanted to show everyone that you can fit a 5" downpipe in a Maverick. You just have to think outside the box...or in this case, outside the fenderwell!

[BurnTire]

Damn looks like a fast project in the works.

[mntony]

Recognize the front tires?

[BurnTire]

Yes I do.

[mntony]

That's pretty much where they have sat since last year when you sold them to me! LOL

[BurnTire]

How big is that turbo?

[mntony]

It's a Borg Warner 80mm T6. Spooling may be a problem, that's why you see the solenoids on the motor. I have an old school Liberty Toploader 4 speed in it and between that the small cubes (347) and the 1.35 a/r exhaust I just don't see it spooling very fast. I don't trust my welds on the exhaust enough to bring it up on a two step, but we will see. If I calculate in a big tail wind...

[mntony]

Well, I finished welding the downpipe and added the wastegate tube...and then...(As they say on the TV show Wipeout)...it took big balls, but I cut a hole in my perfectly good fender!

[Mr. Austin]

beautiful!

[mntony]

Thank you, I appreciate the compliment.

[4Jenna]

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice, me likey likey!!

-Chris

[mntony]

Thanks Chris! If it runs half as good as yours I'll be satisfied.

[Mr. Austin]

I Assume the that is an O2 sensor nut half way down the pipe? With a carburetor i would also assume your using that for your Air Fuel ratio. Unless you have one of those wicked fuel injected carburetors. Im saving up for one. $1500 bucks

[mntony]

Yes you are correct. That bung is for my wide band o2 sensor. It's a necessity when you are carburated with a blow through application like this. The carb I have probably cost me every bit of $1000 to build. It came from all new parts with billet metering blocks, billet baseplate, dual needle and seat bowls, annular boosters, and the 'crutch' power valve actuator. It's a neat carb and from all indications should work great. My plan is to run E85 through it so the fuel system is rediculous. An Aeromotive Pro Pump and controller, -10 lines up and back, sumped tank, Aeromotive bypass regulator...it's just nuts. This started out as such a simple 'junk yard' twin turbo build, that became this sick obsession! LOL

[Mr. Austin]

ahh. reading that is better than a girl whispering in my ear..... A bung. I coulnt remember the name.

[trucker]

looks very nice, now pass those balls to austin to cut his hood

[mntony]

That's wrong...on so many levels! LOL

[Mr. Austin]

Lol I am getting to it!

[mntony]

If I can offer a tip...put a minimum of two layers of 3M blue painters tape down (to protect it, assuming it has good paint), draw the shape and then start by drilling a hole. Then come back with an air powered body saw (similar to a jig saw only faster) and follow the line. That's how I did mine anyhow. Good luck!

[Mr. Austin]

I have a layer of Green auto tape on a hood, no good paint on it yet. getting it painted after. Was planning on just cutting it with an air cut off wheel.

[mntony]

I've used the cutoff wheel and found it difficult when it comes to rounded corners. The best advice I can give you is to suck it up and start cutting! You can't finish if you don't start! LOL

[Mr. Austin]

Here is where I am at.

4906
4907
4908

[mntony]

Man, that is going to look good!

[Mr. Austin]

Have any Ideas on how to fix the dent you see on the front of the hood? you can tell by the sand marks where the dents are.

[mntony]

Oh man, I'm not the person to ask about body work! I absolutely hate doing it. Those guys don't get paid enough in my opinion! But having said all that, if you can get in behind it then a body hammer and anvil would be best. But I'm guessing that is not the case. Short of that there is always trying to shrink the metal. What happens when you get a dent is that you usually end up stretching the metal and trying to get it flat again is the challenge. Shrinking involves heating up the metal and quenching it very fast. The problem is that you don't want to distort other parts of the hood as well. But like I said, I am certainly no expert with bodywork.